Lesson 1Preservatives, fragrances, and potential irritants: parabens, isothiazolinones, fragrance allergens — relevance for sensitive skinAnalyzes preservatives, fragrances, and other potential irritants. Covers parabens, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, and fragrance allergens, with emphasis on patch testing, regulatory limits, and guidance for sensitive or atopic skin.
Common preservative classes and safety dataIsothiazolinones and formaldehyde releasersFragrance allergens and labeling rulesFormulating for sensitive and atopic skinPatch testing and counseling on avoidanceLesson 2Retinoids and retinoid alternatives: tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinaldehyde — mechanism, efficacy, irritation managementExplores topical retinoids and alternatives, including tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, and retinaldehyde. Discusses receptor binding, evidence in acne and photoaging, titration strategies, buffering, and managing irritation and purging.
Retinoid classes and receptor selectivityAcne vs photoaging: evidence and regimensRetinol and retinaldehyde: conversion stepsInitiation, titration, and buffering methodsManaging irritation, purging, and adherenceLesson 3Excipients and vehicles affecting delivery: pH, liposomes, esters, gels, creams, oil-in-water vs water-in-oil impact on actives and tolerabilityExamines how excipients and vehicles shape delivery, efficacy, and tolerability. Compares gels, creams, lotions, and ointments, pH effects, liposomes and esters, and how oil-in-water versus water-in-oil systems alter penetration.
pH impact on ionization and irritationOil-in-water vs water-in-oil: key differencesLiposomes and encapsulation for activesRole of esters and solvents in penetrationSelecting vehicles for skin type and diseaseLesson 4Lightening pathway modulators: hydroquinone, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid — mechanisms and cautionsCovers hydroquinone, azelaic acid, and tranexamic acid as modulators of melanogenesis and vascular components. Details mechanisms, dosing, treatment duration, rebound risk, and safety considerations in different skin phototypes.
Hydroquinone: mechanism and cycling regimensAzelaic acid for pigment and acne overlapTranexamic acid: topical and oral usePost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation strategiesSafety in darker phototypes and pregnancyLesson 5Photoprotection actives and filters: UVA/UVB chemical filters, mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), photostability, broad-spectrum requirementsReviews organic and mineral UV filters, including zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Explains UVA and UVB coverage, SPF and PPD concepts, photostability, filter combinations, and regulatory and labeling aspects of broad-spectrum claims.
UVA vs UVB: clinical and labeling relevanceOrganic filters: profiles and combinationsMineral filters: particle size and aestheticsPhotostability and use of stabilizing systemsBroad-spectrum, SPF, and PPD requirementsLesson 6Sunscreen adjuncts and enhancers: photostabilizers, antioxidants, intended claimsFocuses on sunscreen adjuncts that enhance protection, such as photostabilizers and antioxidants. Explores mechanisms, evidence for reduced photoaging, marketing claims, and how adjuncts influence texture and user adherence.
Photostabilizers for vulnerable UV filtersAntioxidants in sunscreens: added benefitsBlue light and infrared protection claimsImpact on cosmetic elegance and adherenceEvaluating evidence behind marketing claimsLesson 7Anti-inflammatory and barrier-supporting actives: ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal, allantoinDetails barrier-supporting and soothing actives such as ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal, and allantoin. Explains barrier repair ratios, anti-inflammatory actions, and roles in dermatitis and post-procedure care.
Ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid ratiosPanthenol and allantoin: soothing mechanismsColloidal oatmeal: anti-itch and barrier effectsBarrier repair in eczema and irritant dermatitisPost-procedure recovery and product layeringLesson 8Antioxidants and brightening agents: vitamin C (ascorbic acid forms), niacinamide, alpha arbutin, kojic acid — stability, interactions, clinical indicationsDetails vitamin C forms, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid. Discusses antioxidant and brightening mechanisms, stability challenges, compatible pH ranges, layering with other actives, and evidence-based indications for dyschromia.
Ascorbic acid vs derivatives and pH needsNiacinamide: barrier, tone, and tolerabilityAlpha arbutin and kojic acid: pigment targetsFormulation and packaging for antioxidant stabilityCombining brighteners with retinoids and acidsLesson 9Keratolytics and comedolytics: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid — concentrations, vehicles, side effectsReviews keratolytics and comedolytics such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid. Addresses mechanisms, optimal concentrations, vehicle selection, bleaching risk, irritation, and combining with retinoids or antibiotics.
Salicylic acid: pH, strength, and vehiclesBenzoyl peroxide: efficacy and bleaching riskAzelaic acid: dual comedolytic and brighteningCombining with retinoids and topical antibioticsIrritation, dryness, and mitigation tacticsLesson 10Humectants and emollients: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea — function and formulation considerationsExplores humectants and emollients such as glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and urea. Covers mechanisms of water binding, barrier support, ideal concentrations, synergy with occlusives, and formulation choices for dry, sensitive, and aging skin.
Glycerin: mechanism, levels, and skin feelHyaluronic acid weights and crosslinkingUrea concentrations and indicationsCombining humectants, emollients, occlusivesFormulation tips for dry and sensitive skin
