Lesson 1Antimicrobials and microbiome-friendly actives: benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, topical antimicrobials and resistance considerationsThis lesson discusses topical antimicrobials and microbiome-safe actives like benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid, covering actions, resistance risks, microbiome changes, and ways to treat conditions without causing dysbiosis.
Benzoyl peroxide: bactericidal action and irritationAzelaic acid: antimicrobial and anti-inflammatoryTopical antibiotics and resistance mitigationMicrobiome shifts in acne and dermatitisNon-antibiotic antimicrobial strategiesCombining antimicrobials with barrier supportLesson 2Surfactants and cleansers: non-foaming vs foaming, pH and barrier impactThis lesson analyses surfactant types and cleanser designs, comparing foaming and non-foaming options, pH effects, lipid removal, barrier impact, and choices for acne, rosacea, atopic skin, and post-procedure care.
Anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactant classesFoaming vs non-foaming systems and skin feelCleanser pH, acid mantle, and TEWL changesSyndets vs true soaps in dermocosmeticsCleanser selection for acne and oily skinCleansers for atopic, rosacea, and aged skinLesson 3Sunscreen filters: chemical vs mineral filters, UVA/UVB coverage, photostability, and vehicle effectsThis lesson covers chemical and mineral sunscreen filters, UVA/UVB protection, photostability, vehicles, film formation, feel, and interactions with other actives in skincare routines.
UVA vs UVB: action spectra and skin outcomesOrganic filters: mechanisms and safety profileMineral filters: particle size and whiteningPhotostability, filter pairing, and boostersVehicle types, film formation, and adherenceCombining sunscreens with irritant-prone activesLesson 4Anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair agents: niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acidsThis lesson explores anti-inflammatory and barrier repair ingredients like niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids, linking their actions to results in acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and irritations.
Niacinamide: mechanisms, benefits, and limitsPanthenol and soothing of acute irritationCeramide subclasses and lamellar organizationCholesterol and fatty acids in barrier balanceOptimal ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid ratiosBarrier repair in atopic and irritant dermatitisLesson 5Preservatives, fragrance, and common sensitizers: parabens, formaldehyde releasers, essential oilsThis lesson reviews preservatives, fragrances, and sensitisers like parabens, formaldehyde releasers, and essential oils, explaining preservation, allergy risks, patch testing, and safer picks for sensitive skin.
Mechanisms of cosmetic preservation and stabilityParabens: safety data, myths, and regulatory statusFormaldehyde releasers and contact allergy riskFragrance mixes, essential oils, and sensitizationLabel reading for fragrance-free and hypoallergenicPatch testing relevance and counseling patientsLesson 6Antioxidants and supportive actives: vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tocopherol, and niacinamide interactionsThis lesson covers antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide, including stability, combinations, incompatibilities, and protection against oxidative damage.
Oxidative stress pathways in skin agingAscorbic acid forms, pH, and stabilizationTocopherol and lipid phase antioxidant synergyVitamin C and E co-formulation strategiesNiacinamide interactions with acidic formulasAntioxidants in photoprotection regimensLesson 7Retinoids and retinaldehyde: efficacy, irritation management, and photosensitivityThis lesson details retinoids like retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription types, covering anti-ageing and acne evidence, irritation causes, photosensitivity, and tolerance-building strategies.
Retinoid family overview and skin pharmacologyEvidence for acne, photoaging, and dyschromiaRetinaldehyde vs retinol: potency and tolerabilityIrritation mechanisms and barrier impairmentRetinization protocols and buffering strategiesPhotosensitivity, photoprotection, and timingLesson 8Humectants and hydrators: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, propanediol — molecular weight considerationsThis lesson discusses humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and propanediol, explaining molecular weights, penetration, stickiness, and pairing with occlusives to avoid dehydration.
Mechanisms of humectancy and water bindingHyaluronic acid molecular weights and effectsGlycerin: efficacy, safety, and sensory profilePropanediol and multifunctional solvent rolesPairing humectants with occlusives and emollientsHydrator choices for oily vs very dry skinLesson 9Keratolytics and exfoliants: salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid — concentration, pH, and irritation riskThis lesson analyses exfoliants like salicylic, glycolic, and lactic acids, covering concentrations, pH, penetration, irritation risks, and safe use for acne, photoageing, pigmentation, and sensitive skin.
Beta-hydroxy vs alpha-hydroxy acid mechanismsRole of pH and concentration in acid potencySalicylic acid in acne and seborrheic skinGlycolic acid for photoaging and dyschromiaLactic acid for dry and sensitive-prone skinLayering acids with retinoids and vitamin C