Lesson 1Common contaminants and their chemical impacts (metal ions, residual acid)Spot common contaminants like metal ions, leftover acids, and impurities in water or raw materials. Understand how they cause rancidity, DOS, texture problems, and colour changes, and learn ways to prevent or fix them.
Sources of metal ions in typical soap studiosChelators to bind metals and prevent DOSResidual acid or lye imbalance problemsEffects of impure water and storage conditionsTesting and documenting contamination issuesLesson 2How oil blends affect hardness, lather, conditioning, cleansing and longevityDiscover how various oil blends manage hardness, lather quality, conditioning sensation, cleansing power, and bar lifespan. Link fatty acid details to actual bar results and craft balanced recipes for specific purposes.
Balancing hard and soft oils in a base recipeDesigning for creamy vs bubbly lather profilesManaging cleansing vs mildness in daily soapsFormulating for longevity and low mushinessUsing calculators to predict bar propertiesLesson 3Principles of saponification: triglycerides, fatty acids, NaOH reaction, heat and timeGrasp the saponification process from triglycerides to soap and glycerin. See how NaOH strength, temperature, stirring, and curing time impact trace, gel phase, reaction completion, and final bar quality.
From triglycerides to soap and glycerinEffect of lye concentration on trace speedTemperature control, gel phase, and insulationTime, cure, and completion of saponificationRecognizing and avoiding false trace issuesLesson 4Common oils and butters: detailed properties of olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, cocoa butterExamine the chemistry and traits of key soaping oils and butters like olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, and cocoa butter, to make smart substitutions and adjust recipes for cost and performance.
Olive oil grades and their soaping behaviorCoconut oil levels and skin tolerance limitsPalm and alternatives for sustainable hardnessShea, cocoa, and luxury butters in formulasCastor and sunflower as supporting liquid oilsLesson 5pH testing, titration basics, and typical soap pH ranges during cure and at useSee how soap pH shifts from mixing to full cure, proper testing methods, and safe ranges for skin. Master titration basics to check neutralisation and fix harsh or unstable batches.
Using pH strips and meters correctly in soapInterpreting pH during gel and cure stagesSafe pH ranges for body, face, and household barsSimple titration to check excess lye or fatCorrecting batches with off‑spec pH readingsLesson 6Superfatting: purpose, free oils, choice of superfatting agents, effect on shelf life and rancidityUnderstand why soap makers superfat, select good superfat oils, and how amount and timing affect gentleness, lather, oxidation, and DOS risk. Build strategies balancing skin comfort with shelf life.
Reasons to superfat and typical usage rangesChoosing which oils to reserve as superfatsIn‑the‑pot vs lye discount superfat methodsSuperfat level, oxidation, and DOS formationDesigning stable superfatted commercial barsLesson 7Fatty acid profiles and functional contributions: lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleicStudy main fatty acids and their role in lather, hardness, solubility, and conditioning. Learn to interpret fatty acid profiles and predict performance when creating or tweaking cold process recipes.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansing latherPalmitic and stearic acids for hardness and longevityOleic and linoleic for conditioning and glideRicinoleic acid and its lather boosting roleReading and comparing fatty acid chartsLesson 8Role of water and liquid substitutes (milk, tea, hydrosols) in trace and reaction rateLearn the part water and substitutes like milk, tea, hydrosols play in dissolving lye, managing trace, gel, and heat. Understand water adjustments and swaps' effects on safety, texture, and cure time.
Lye solution strength and safe mixing ratiosWater discount and its effect on trace speedUsing milks and teas as full or partial waterManaging heat, gel, and potential overheatingAdjusting cure time for different water levelsLesson 9Soap molecules: surfactant structure, micelles, pH and skin compatibilityExplore soap as a surfactant: its molecular setup, micelle formation, and how pH, water hardness, and recipe affect gentleness and skin compatibility while ensuring good cleansing.
Hydrophilic heads and hydrophobic tailsHow micelles lift and suspend soilsImpact of pH on skin barrier and feelWater hardness, scum, and chelating agentsFormulating for sensitive or dry skin typesLesson 10Role of additives (clays, botanicals, milks, sugars) on chemistry and preservation concernsCheck how clays, botanicals, milks, sugars, and similar additives react with lye and fats, affect trace, colour, lather, and bring preservation or spoilage risks needing careful handling.
Clays for slip, color, and oil absorptionBotanical powders and risk of discolorationUsing milks safely without scorching or spoilageSugars, honey, and heat management in moldsWhen and how to use preservatives or chelators
