Lesson 1Measurement set required from the actor with movement allowances and quick-change considerationsFigure the actor’s size list for a long showy coat, adding move room and fast-swap thinks. Turn tape reads and body notes into base checks, pattern scribbles, and fit tops for run-throughs.
Core girth, length, and shoulder measuresMeasuring over base costume layersAdding reach, stride, and twist allowancesQuick-change ease and underdressing needsRecording asymmetries and posture notesLesson 2Fastening and dressing strategies: placement of hidden closures, snap systems, and emergency release pointsPlan hooks and dress ways backing hidden shuts, snap setups, and quick-off spots, making the sorcerer coat look smooth yet allow fast swaps and safe pulls on stage.
Choosing visible versus hidden closuresPlacing snaps, hooks, and magnetsDesigning emergency release openingsRouting closures around mic cablesLabeling fronts for dressers and crewLesson 3Creating front pattern changes: lapel shape, chest fullness, and decorative seam placementsRedo front pattern for noble sorcerer vibe, shaping flaps, handling chest puff, placing decor joins that lead eyes, back stitching, link with skirt and collar lines.
Drafting new lapel and break lineControlling chest fullness and roll lineDesigning princess and panel seamsAligning seams with embroidery zonesBalancing fronts with skirt flareLesson 4Skirt and tail shaping: godets, gores, and flared skirts that maintain movement and do not entangleShape skirts and tails to flare big without snags. Use wedges, gores, cut panels to rule fullness, hem spread, weight spread for safe, repeat stage strides.
Choosing skirt length and sweepPlacing gores and godets for flareControlling fullness at side seamsBalancing weight for turns and spinsShaping hem for stairs and platformsLesson 5Collar and neckline transformations: high-collar options, stand/roll structure, and reinforcement for dramatic shapesRebuild collar and neck for high show shapes. Check stand-roll builds, hidden backs, stiffens holding sorcerer collar steady under lights, sweat, repeat fast swaps.
Raising neckline and front break pointDrafting stand and fall collar optionsAdding undercollar and canvas supportPlacing stays, wire, or rigileneManaging bulk at shoulder and neckLesson 6Final pattern validation: movement tests, light and costume-change simulationsCheck final pattern with aimed move trials, light peeks, swap drills. Sure the coat shows noble sorcerer from all sides, holds run-through stress.
Movement tests for combat and danceSeated, kneeling, and stair trialsQuick-change and dresser rehearsalsChecking silhouette under stage lightFinalizing notes for build and repairsLesson 7Incorporating fantasy features into pattern: panel insets for embroidery, trim channels, and concealed wiring for shape retentionMix fantasy bits right in pattern, like panel slots for stitching, trim paths, hidden wires or rigs holding show shapes comfy and fixable.
Planning embroidery and applique panelsDrafting trim and piping channelsHiding wiring and boning in seamsAllowing access for electronics repairMaintaining comfort under reinforcementsLesson 8Establishing the target silhouette: long skirted coat proportions, waist suppression, and shoulder linesSet sight goals for sorcerer coat by checking old refs, fantasy ideas, actor wants, then shift to size, poise, style lines draftable on jacket base.
Analyzing 18th-century and fantasy referencesDetermining coat length and skirt proportionsPlanning waist suppression and flare balanceDesigning shoulder width and shoulder slopeMapping key style lines on the blockLesson 9Grading and repeatability: simple grading rules for multiple actor sizes and workshop handoffMake plain, shop-friendly size rules so sorcerer coat builds for many actors. Note size groups, tweak spots, shop scribbles holding shape and fantasy touches.
Selecting base size and grade incrementsGrading length versus girth separatelyProtecting style lines during gradingDefining standard alteration zonesPreparing cutter-friendly spec sheetsLesson 10Ease and mobility adjustments: stride allowance in skirt, lateral ease at armhole, and hem clearancesPlan room and moves all through coat, key on skirt stride room, side armhole play, hem gaps. Trial pattern shifts vs dances, fights, sits.
Calculating stride and kick allowancesAdding lateral ease at armhole and sideChecking reach, lift, and twist rangesAdjusting hem for boots and platformsBalancing ease with noble silhouetteLesson 11Mockup and toile workflow: sequence of fittings, marking alterations, and transferring changes to final patternBuild clear trial and mock flow, first fit to last pattern. Mark tweaks, note moves, shift all changes true back to paper or tech files.
Building the first toile from the blockPrioritizing fit and movement checksMarking balance, drag lines, and easeTransferring changes to paper patternsVersion control for pattern updatesLesson 12Selecting the starting block: reasons to choose a fitted men’s jacket block for 18th-century inspired coatSpot why fitted men’s jacket base works quick for 18th-century style sorcerer coat, weighing fit, poise, build traits backing big skirts, collars, layer stage cloths.
Assessing block fit, balance, and postureChecking armhole depth and sleeve positionEvaluating front edge and overlap potentialConfirming ease for layered stage garmentsMarking reference lines for later changesLesson 13Back pattern modifications: center back lengthening, box pleats, vent/tail constructionShift back pattern for length, drama, ruled fullness. Plan back stretches, vents, tails, pleats moving good on stage with straps or mics.
Extending center back and waist seamDrafting single and double ventsDesigning box and inverted pleatsShaping tails for stage movementAccommodating harness and mic packsLesson 14Sleeve adaptations: 18th-century sleeve shapes, added fullness for turns, and wrist opening solutionsShift sleeve from fitted jacket to 18th-style sorcerer, adding fold cuffs, turn room, wrist gaps for props, spell waves, fast back dress.
Rebalancing sleeve cap for mobilityAdding elbow and forearm fullnessDesigning cuffs and turn-back shapesPlanning wrist vents and placketsIntegrating lining and facing shapes
