Lesson 1Superfatting and preservatives: what superfat means, typical percent ranges, and handling free oils; rancidity risks and antioxidant use (vitamin E, rosemary extract)Clarify what superfat means and how free oils influence mildness, lather, and shelf life. Learn typical superfat ranges, how to choose which oils to reserve, and how antioxidants help slow rancidity and DOS in finished bars, especially in humid conditions.
Defining superfat and lye discountChoosing which oils to superfat withSuperfat levels for face, body, and shampooRecognizing and preventing DOS and rancidityUsing vitamin E and rosemary extract wiselyLesson 2Selecting oils for target skin types: formulations for sensitive, dry, normal, oily skin and trade-offsLearn how to match oil blends to sensitive, dry, normal, and oily skin. Compare cleansing, conditioning, and hardness, and understand trade-offs between mildness, bubbly lather, longevity, and cost when designing targeted recipes for everyday use.
Key fatty acids and their skin feelFormulating for sensitive or reactive skinDesigning bars for dry or mature skinBalancing recipes for normal or combo skinLow-residue bars for oily or acne-prone skinLesson 3Understanding trace and its impact on swirl techniques and batched consistencyUnderstand what trace is, how to recognise its stages, and why it matters for texture and design. Learn to control trace speed to execute swirls, layers, and embeds while keeping batter workable and structurally sound for beautiful bars.
Visual and textural signs of light traceMedium and thick trace and when to use themFactors that speed or slow traceTiming colorants and fragrance at traceTrace management for swirl techniquesLesson 4Fragrance choices: essential oils vs. fragrance oils, heat and alkali stability, skin-safety considerations and IFRA basicsCompare essential oils and fragrance oils for cold process soap. Evaluate heat and alkali stability, discoloration risks, usage rates, and IFRA guidelines so you can design fragrant bars that are both safe and long-lasting in our warm weather.
Essential oil pros, cons, and safety limitsWorking with synthetic fragrance oilsAcceleration, ricing, and discoloration risksReading IFRA documents and usage tablesBlending scents for better longevityLesson 5Basic saponification chemistry: triglycerides, fatty acids, glycerin, and how lye converts oils to soapGain a clear picture of saponification chemistry: how triglycerides and lye react to form soap and glycerin. Learn why exact lye calculation, purity assumptions, and correct mixing order are essential for safe, stable bars every time.
Structure of triglycerides and fatty acidsWhat sodium hydroxide does in solutionThe saponification reaction step by stepRole and benefits of natural glycerinWhy accurate lye calculation is criticalLesson 6Common soap-making oils and butters: properties, typical fatty acid profiles, and functional impacts (hardness, lather, conditioning)Survey the most common soap-making oils and butters and how their fatty acid profiles affect hardness, lather, conditioning, and solubility. Learn to combine them into balanced, stable, and cost-effective base recipes using local options.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansingOleic-rich oils for conditioning and glidePalmitic and stearic acids for hardnessCastor oil and stable, creamy latherBuilding balanced base recipes from staplesLesson 7Role of liquid phase: water vs. distilled, herbal/tea infusions, milk, and impact on texture and traceExplore how different liquids behave in cold process soap, including distilled water, herbal infusions, teas, and milks. Learn how liquid type and concentration affect trace speed, texture, colour, scent retention, and cure time in varying humidity.
Why distilled water is the default solventWater discounts and their effect on traceWorking safely with milk and sugar-rich liquidsUsing herbal and tea infusions for color and scentManaging acceleration and overheating from liquidsLesson 8Additives and functional botanicals: clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, botanical powders and their skin effectsDiscover how functional additives change the feel and performance of soap. Learn to use clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, and botanical powders for slip, soothing effects, detox aesthetics, and controlled scrub levels on different skin types.
Using clays for slip, color, and oil anchoringColloidal oats and soothing additivesActivated charcoal for color and marketingChoosing gentle versus strong exfoliantsDispersing botanical powders to avoid clumpsLesson 9Common allergens and nut oils: identification, labelling implications, and alternatives for nut-free barsIdentify common allergenic ingredients in soap, especially nut-derived oils and butters. Learn labelling expectations, how to reduce cross-contact risk, and how to substitute nut-free options while preserving bar performance for sensitive users.
Common allergenic oils and buttersReading supplier documentation and COAsLabeling practices for potential allergensDesigning nut-free or low-risk formulasCommunicating risks to sensitive customersLesson 10Natural colorants and pigments: mica, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric—staining risk, heat sensitivity, and pH stabilityUnderstand how natural colorants behave in high-pH soap. Compare micas, clays, and botanicals like spirulina, annatto, and turmeric, focusing on usage rates, bleeding, staining risk, heat sensitivity, and long-term colour stability in sunlight.
Differences between micas and mineral pigmentsUsing cosmetic clays for color and slipGreen botanicals like spirulina and chlorellaWarm tones with annatto, turmeric, and paprikaPreventing fading, morphing, and staining issuesLesson 11Simple formulation metrics: percentages, parts by weight, batch scaling, and converting to grams for calculator useDevelop confidence with basic formulation maths. Practice using percentages and parts by weight, scaling recipes up or down, and converting between ounces and grams so you can use online lye calculators accurately and safely for any batch size.
Using baker’s percentages for oilsConverting between weight unitsScaling a test batch to production sizeEntering data correctly in lye calculatorsChecking water and lye ratios for safety
