Lesson 1Bolt belay construction: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor layouts, using slings and locking carabiners, creating a clean master pointBuild skills for clean, backup bolt belays using fixed hangers, proper bolt-to-bolt links, slings, and locking carabiners, avoiding cross-loading, mess, and bad setup of the master point and rope systems.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor inspection and testing: visual checks, load-path reasoning, shock-loading considerations, and when to rebuildPractice checking anchors step by step with visual looks, feel tests, and load-path thinking to spot weak spots, shock-load risks, and stretch issues, and learn when to fix or rebuild a belay anchor.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: principles of redundancy, equalization, independent anchors, and minimizing extensionMaster key anchor rules for multi-pitch belays: backups, equalizing, independent parts, and less stretch, then use them to check and improve real anchors and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Rigging rappels at belays: setting dedicated rappel rings, retrievable vs. non-retrievable rigging, single-point rappel vs. double-rope rappelsLearn to set up safe, good rappels from belays, including fixed rings, pullable systems, single vs double-rope, and ways to avoid stuck ropes, edge damage, and mix-ups at busy spots.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and redundancy: attachment of belay device to harness, backup methods (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device choices for multi-pitch belaysBest ways to place belay devices at the station: harness or anchor tie-in, backups like autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand, and picking devices for multi-pitch belays and lowers.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear layout and clipping protocol: where to rack active gear, where to stow unused gear, managing sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceOrganize gear at belay so active bits, spares, and personal stuff are racked smartly, away from sharp edges and loose rocks, quick to grab, less tangles and drops.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs. sliding X vs. equalette vs. fixed loops—advantages, failure modes, and sizingCompare anchor ties: cordelette, sliding X, equalette, fixed loops—their good points, weaknesses, fails, and sizes, and when each works best on multi-pitch.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: combining bolts and removable pro, decisions when rock is fractured or has loose blocksBuild solid anchors on mixed ground with bolts and removable gear, strategies for cracked or blocky rock, pick strongest bits, decide when to shift or skip a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance organization at belay: positioning leader, second, and third person; space management on small ledges; fixed-line vs. hanging belaysOrganise climbers and ropes at belay: leader, second, third positions; space on small ledges; fixed-line vs hanging belays.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay construction: selecting, placing, and orienting removable pro for anchor points, building a multi-point anchor with cams and nutsPick, place, check removable gear for belay anchors, combine into backup, well-set multi-point anchor with cams, nuts, terrain on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull
