Lesson 1Antimicrobials and microbiome-friendly actives: benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, topical antimicrobials and resistance considerationsThis section covers topical antimicrobials and microbiome-conscious actives, including benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid. It reviews mechanisms, resistance concerns, microbiome shifts, and strategies to limit dysbiosis while treating disease in local populations.
Benzoyl peroxide: bactericidal action and irritationAzelaic acid: antimicrobial and anti-inflammatoryTopical antibiotics and resistance mitigationMicrobiome shifts in acne and dermatitisNon-antibiotic antimicrobial strategiesCombining antimicrobials with barrier supportLesson 2Surfactants and cleansers: non-foaming vs foaming, pH and barrier impactThis section analyses surfactant chemistry and cleanser design, contrasting foaming and non-foaming systems. It covers pH, lipid extraction, barrier disruption, and how to choose cleansers for acne, rosacea, atopic skin, and post-procedure care in varied climates.
Anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactant classesFoaming vs non-foaming systems and skin feelCleanser pH, acid mantle, and TEWL changesSyndets vs true soaps in dermocosmeticsCleanser selection for acne and oily skinCleansers for atopic, rosacea, and aged skinLesson 3Sunscreen filters: chemical vs mineral filters, UVA/UVB coverage, photostability, and vehicle effectsThis section examines organic and mineral sunscreen filters, UVA and UVB coverage, and photostability. It discusses vehicles, film formation, cosmetic elegance, and how filters interact with other actives in dermocosmetic regimens for high UV environments.
UVA vs UVB: action spectra and skin outcomesOrganic filters: mechanisms and safety profileMineral filters: particle size and whiteningPhotostability, filter pairing, and boostersVehicle types, film formation, and adherenceCombining sunscreens with irritant-prone activesLesson 4Anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair agents: niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acidsThis section explores anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair ingredients such as niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. It links molecular actions to clinical outcomes in acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, and irritant dermatitis across skin tones.
Niacinamide: mechanisms, benefits, and limitsPanthenol and soothing of acute irritationCeramide subclasses and lamellar organisationCholesterol and fatty acids in barrier balanceOptimal ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid ratiosBarrier repair in atopic and irritant dermatitisLesson 5Preservatives, fragrance, and common sensitisers: parabens, formaldehyde releasers, essential oilsThis section reviews preservatives, fragrance components, and classic sensitisers. It explains mechanisms of preservation, typical allergenic pathways, patch test relevance, and how to select lower-risk options for sensitive or compromised skin in diverse users.
Mechanisms of cosmetic preservation and stabilityParabens: safety data, myths, and regulatory statusFormaldehyde releasers and contact allergy riskFragrance mixes, essential oils, and sensitisationLabel reading for fragrance-free and hypoallergenicPatch testing relevance and counselling patientsLesson 6Antioxidants and supportive actives: vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tocopherol, and niacinamide interactionsThis section reviews key antioxidant and supportive actives, focusing on vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide. It covers stability, synergistic combinations, potential incompatibilities, and how these agents protect against oxidative stress from environmental factors.
Oxidative stress pathways in skin ageingAscorbic acid forms, pH, and stabilisationTocopherol and lipid phase antioxidant synergyVitamin C and E co-formulation strategiesNiacinamide interactions with acidic formulasAntioxidants in photoprotection regimensLesson 7Retinoids and retinaldehyde: efficacy, irritation management, and photosensitivityThis section details topical retinoids, including retinol, retinaldehyde, and prescription analogs. It reviews mechanisms, antiageing and acne evidence, irritation pathways, photosensitivity issues, and strategies to build tolerance and combine actives safely.
Retinoid family overview and skin pharmacologyEvidence for acne, photoageing, and dyschromiaRetinaldehyde vs retinol: potency and tolerabilityIrritation mechanisms and barrier impairmentRetinisation protocols and buffering strategiesPhotosensitivity, photoprotection, and timingLesson 8Humectants and hydrators: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, propanediol — molecular weight considerationsThis section explores humectants and water-binding hydrators, including hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and propanediol. It explains molecular weight, penetration, tackiness, and how to pair humectants with occlusives to prevent barrier dehydration in dry or humid areas.
Mechanisms of humectancy and water bindingHyaluronic acid molecular weights and effectsGlycerin: efficacy, safety, and sensory profilePropanediol and multifunctional solvent rolesPairing humectants with occlusives and emollientsHydrator choices for oily vs very dry skinLesson 9Keratolytics and exfoliants: salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid — concentration, pH, and irritation riskThis section analyses keratolytics and exfoliants such as salicylic, glycolic, and lactic acids. It explains concentration, pH, penetration depth, and irritation risk, guiding safe use in acne, photoageing, dyschromia, and sensitive skin for South African users.
Beta-hydroxy vs alpha-hydroxy acid mechanismsRole of pH and concentration in acid potencySalicylic acid in acne and seborrheic skinGlycolic acid for photoageing and dyschromiaLactic acid for dry and sensitive-prone skinLayering acids with retinoids and vitamin C
