Lesson 1Soothing and anti-inflammatory actives: panthenol, niacinamide, bisabolol for scalp tolerance and sensory benefitsHere we cover soothing and anti-inflammatory actives that support scalp comfort in damaged-hair routines. You will study panthenol, niacinamide, bisabolol, and how they influence barrier function, redness, itch, and overall sensory perception for better tolerance.
Scalp barrier and inflammation basicsPanthenol for hydration and soothingNiacinamide for barrier and rednessBisabolol and botanical anti-irritantsSensory testing and consumer perceptionFormulation limits and compatibilityLesson 2Lipids, ceramides and fatty alcohols: replenishing the lipid mantle, repairing cuticle gaps, improving barrier functionThis section examines lipids, ceramides, and fatty alcohols that reinforce the hair lipid barrier. You will learn how they fill cuticle gaps, reduce porosity, improve smoothness, and support long-term resistance to mechanical and chemical stress in daily use.
Hair lipid layer composition overviewCeramides and cuticle gap fillingCholesterol and 18-MEA restorationFatty alcohols as structuring emollientsPorosity reduction and strength gainsSynergy with proteins and conditionersLesson 3Proteins and peptides: hydrolysed proteins, amino acids, keratin-derived peptides and mechanism of temporary repairThis section focuses on proteins, peptides, and amino acids used for temporary repair. You will learn how size, charge, and hydrolysis degree affect penetration, film formation, strength, and how to balance stiffness with softness for natural feel.
Protein damage markers in hair fibresHydrolysed proteins and molecular weightKeratin-derived peptides and targetingFree amino acids and moisturisationFilm formation, strength, and brittlenessAllergy, labelling, and vegan alternativesLesson 4Oils and esters: vegetable vs synthetic esters, penetration vs surface lubricationThis section explores oils and esters that lubricate, protect, and sometimes penetrate hair. You will compare natural oils and synthetic esters, understand fatty acid profiles, penetration depth, and how they influence frizz, gloss, and breakage in various climates.
Cuticle lubrication and friction reductionPenetrating versus surface oilsVegetable oils and fatty acid profilesSynthetic esters and sensorial tuningOcclusion, gloss, and frizz controlRancidity, oxidation, and product stabilityLesson 5Surfactants and mild cleansing systems: sulphate vs sulphate-free (anionic, amphoteric, nonionic) and impact on damaged hairThis section analyses surfactant systems for cleansing damaged hair with minimal additional harm. You will compare sulphates and sulphate-free blends, examine anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic roles, and design milder yet effective systems for sensitive scalps.
Surfactant types and micelle formationSulphate surfactants and damage potentialAmphoteric and nonionic mildness boostersCoacervates and conditioning during washFoam quality versus gentleness balanceScalp tolerance and rinse-off optimisationLesson 6Silicones and film-formers: volatile vs non-volatile silicones, PVP/VA, dimethicone — shine, smoothness, and protectionThis section covers silicones and film-formers that create protective, smoothing layers on hair. You will compare volatile and non-volatile silicones, PVP/VA and acrylics, and learn how films affect shine, frizz, heat protection, and buildup in humid environments.
Volatile versus non-volatile siliconesDimethicone grades and viscosity selectionAmino-functional silicones and depositionPVP/VA and acrylic film-former propertiesHeat, UV, and mechanical protection rolesManaging buildup and silicone-free claimsLesson 7Humectants and moisturisers: glycerin, propylene glycol, hyaluronic acid — water retention vs hygral fatigueHere we examine humectants and moisturisers that manage hair water content. You will compare glycerin, glycols, and hyaluronic acid, understand water binding versus hygral fatigue, and learn how climate and porosity guide humectant levels for South African conditions.
Water in hair fibre structureGlycerin and classic polyol humectantsPropylene glycol and related glycolsHyaluronic acid weight and film behaviourHygral fatigue and swelling controlClimate, porosity, and usage guidelinesLesson 8Preservatives, chelators, pH adjusters and antioxidants: ensuring stability and preventing further oxidative damageThis section details support ingredients that protect formulas and hair from degradation. You will learn how preservatives, chelators, pH adjusters, and antioxidants maintain microbiological safety, stability, and limit further oxidative damage in diverse environments.
Microbial risks in damaged-hair productsPreservative systems and regulatory limitsChelators, hard water, and metal-catalysed damagepH adjusters and cuticle integrityAntioxidants against oxidative stressStability testing and packaging choicesLesson 9Cationic conditioners and polymers: quaternised cellulose, polyquaterniums — adsorption, deposition, and slipHere we explore cationic conditioners and polymers that adsorb onto damaged hair. You will study charge density, substantivity, buildup, and how quats and polyquats influence combability, slip, volume, and long-term hair feel for easier styling.
Cationic charge and damaged hair bindingQuaternised cellulose structure and functionKey polyquaterniums and performance profilesAdsorption, deposition, and rinse-off behaviourSlip, combability, and sensorial assessmentBuildup control and clarifying strategiesLesson 10Bond-rebuilding chemistries: bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, polyfunctional crosslinkers and how they restore disulphide/peptide interactionsThis section explains bond-rebuilding chemistries that target broken disulphide and peptide linkages. You will learn key molecules, their reaction pathways, realistic repair limits, and how to formulate them without destabilising other actives for effective repair.
Hair damage and disulphide bond breakageBis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate mechanismPolyfunctional crosslinkers and network densityPeptide backbone interactions and limitsFormulation compatibility and stabilitySafety, irritation, and marketing claims
