Lesson 1Recommended stitches, machines, and handwork for wool jacket repairs (basting, stay-stitching, slipstitch)Find the right stitches, machines, and hand methods for fixing wool jackets. Learn when to baste, stay-stitch, slipstitch, and use special feet so changes stay strong, flexible, and hardly seen from outside.
Choosing needle size, thread, and presser feetTemporary basting for fittings and testingStay-stitching to control curves and edgesSlipstitching hems, facings, and liningsReinforcing stress points without bulkLesson 2Standard men’s jacket ease, back fit, sleeve length, and shoulder balanceKnow standard ease and balance for men's wool jackets to spot good or bad fit fast. Learn key measures for chest, back, sleeves, shoulders, and how style and customer likes change ease picks.
Reference ease for chest, waist, and hipsAssessing back drape and shoulder blade roomChecking sleeve length with movement testsEvaluating shoulder balance and neck pointAdapting ease for classic vs slim silhouettesLesson 3Customer communication: explaining fit limits, alteration costs, and care instructions for wool garmentsGain confidence talking real fit aims, prices, and care for changed wool jackets. Learn words to explain limits, set expectations, and give aftercare tips that keep the garment safe and your name good.
Explaining what alterations can and cannot fixDiscussing cost versus value of complex workObtaining written approval for major changesAdvising on pressing and home care for woolHandling complaints and adjustment requestsLesson 4Sleeve shortening techniques: removing hem vs. taking from sleeve head vs. adjusting cuffCompare ways to shorten wool jacket sleeves from hem, sleeve head, or cuff. Learn how each way changes vent bits, sleeve angle, lining length, and how to keep original design when you can.
Assessing how much sleeve length to removeShortening from hem with working buttonholesShortening from sleeve head to keep ventsAdjusting sleeve pitch when reseating sleevesBalancing sleeve and lining lengths evenlyLesson 5Methods to let out or reshape the back: center back, side seams, and back panelsStudy ways to reshape wool jacket back using center back, side seams, panel seams. Learn how each seam changes balance, vent action, arm move, and blend changes into full shape.
Reading drag lines across the back areaChoosing between center back and side seamsAdjusting vents when changing back widthShaping princess or panel seams in woolBlending new back shape into side seamsLesson 6Seam allowance limits, pattern distortion risks, and when to recommend a new jacketLearn how small seam allowances and fabric grain affect wool jackets, when reshaping is okay, when risks too big. Practice checking damage, wear, cost to advise new jacket buy surely.
Measuring available seam allowances accuratelyIdentifying stressed or shiny wool seam areasRecognizing pattern distortion from over-lettingEvaluating structural damage in canvasesGuidelines for recommending replacementLesson 7Working with lined jackets: opening facing, sleeve heads, and reattaching liningsMaster safe ways to open lined wool jackets, reach seams, keep structure. Learn to handle facings, sleeve heads, shoulder pads, linings so putting back is smooth and jacket looks untouched.
Choosing entry points in lining seamsOpening and securing front facings neatlyRemoving and labeling sleeve heads and padsManaging shoulder seams without distortionReattaching linings with smooth hangLesson 8Understanding wool behaviour: drape, shrinkage, and nap orientationSee how wool's natural ways affect change choices. Learn drape, recovery, shrinkage, nap way so you plan pressing, steaming, seam changes without flattening, stretching, or twisting fabric.
Comparing worsted and woolen jacket fabricsPredicting shrinkage from steam and pressingManaging stretch and recovery at stress pointsMaintaining nap direction in all pattern piecesPreventing shine and press marks on woolLesson 9Quality checks specific to tailored jackets: balance, lapel roll, and seam integrityBuild final check routine for wool jackets. Learn to test balance, lapel roll, vents, seam strength after changes so garment hangs well, feels good, meets pro tailoring marks.
Verifying front and back balance on bodyInspecting lapel roll and break line behaviorChecking vent overlap and hem alignmentTesting seam strength at stress pointsFinal pressing and lint removal standardsLesson 10Diagnosing tightness across the back: causes and measurement techniquesLearn to find back tightness using sight drag lines, customer say, exact measures. Tell size problems, posture, pattern unbalance to pick safest change method.
Reading horizontal and diagonal drag linesMeasuring cross-back and shoulder widthSeparating posture issues from size problemsChecking armhole depth and sleeve pitchChoosing seam adjustments to add back roomLesson 11Pinning and marking during a tailored fitting: posture, movement checks, and client guidanceBuild steady fitting routine for wool jackets with posture fixes, move tests, right pinning. Learn marking on dark wool, keep customer safe, explain steps so they know and feel easy.
Preparing fitting tools and fitting room setupCorrecting stance, shoulder drop, and hip tiltPinning side seams, back, and vents on woolMarking balance, button stance, and lapel rollExplaining fitting steps to reassure clients
