Lesson 1Measurement set required from the actor with movement allowances and quick-change considerationsFigure the actor’s measure set for a long, showy coat, adding move room and fast-swap thoughts. Turn tape reads and body checks into block tests, pattern notes, and fitting musts for practice runs.
Core girth, length, and shoulder measuresMeasuring over base costume layersAdding reach, stride, and twist allowancesQuick-change ease and underdressing needsRecording asymmetries and posture notesLesson 2Fastening and dressing strategies: placement of hidden closures, snap systems, and emergency release pointsPlan fastening and dressing ways that back hidden closings, snap setups, and quick-release spots, making the sorcerer coat look smooth while allowing speedy swaps and safe takes on stage.
Choosing visible versus hidden closuresPlacing snaps, hooks, and magnetsDesigning emergency release openingsRouting closures around mic cablesLabeling fronts for dressers and crewLesson 3Creating front pattern changes: lapel shape, chest fullness, and decorative seam placementsRedo the front pattern for a noble sorcerer vibe, shaping lapels, handling chest room, and placing fancy seams that lead the eye, back stitching, and link with skirt and collar lines.
Drafting new lapel and break lineControlling chest fullness and roll lineDesigning princess and panel seamsAligning seams with embroidery zonesBalancing fronts with skirt flareLesson 4Skirt and tail shaping: godets, gores, and flared skirts that maintain movement and do not entangleDesign skirts and tails that spread big without catching the actor. Use gores, godets, and cut panels to manage fullness, hem spread, and weight for safe, steady stage steps.
Choosing skirt length and sweepPlacing gores and godets for flareControlling fullness at side seamsBalancing weight for turns and spinsShaping hem for stairs and platformsLesson 5Collar and neckline transformations: high-collar options, stand/roll structure, and reinforcement for dramatic shapesRebuild collar and neckline for tall, showy shapes. Check stand and roll builds, hidden backs, and stiffens that hold the sorcerer collar steady under lights, sweat, and fast swaps.
Raising neckline and front break pointDrafting stand and fall collar optionsAdding undercollar and canvas supportPlacing stays, wire, or rigileneManaging bulk at shoulder and neckLesson 6Final pattern validation: movement tests, light and costume-change simulationsCheck the last pattern with aimed move tests, light looks, and swap trials. Make sure the coat shows as noble sorcerer from all sides and takes practice-run stress.
Movement tests for combat and danceSeated, kneeling, and stair trialsQuick-change and dresser rehearsalsChecking silhouette under stage lightFinalizing notes for build and repairsLesson 7Incorporating fantasy features into pattern: panel insets for embroidery, trim channels, and concealed wiring for shape retentionMix fantasy bits right into the pattern, like panel slots for stitching, trim paths, and hidden wires or rigs that keep showy shapes comfy and easy to fix.
Planning embroidery and applique panelsDrafting trim and piping channelsHiding wiring and boning in seamsAllowing access for electronics repairMaintaining comfort under reinforcementsLesson 8Establishing the target silhouette: long skirted coat proportions, waist suppression, and shoulder linesSet the sight goals of the sorcerer coat by checking old refs, fantasy ideas, and actor wants, then turn them into size balance and style lines for the base jacket block.
Analyzing 18th-century and fantasy referencesDetermining coat length and skirt proportionsPlanning waist suppression and flare balanceDesigning shoulder width and shoulder slopeMapping key style lines on the blockLesson 9Grading and repeatability: simple grading rules for multiple actor sizes and workshop handoffMake simple, shop-friendly sizing rules so the sorcerer coat fits many actors. Note size sets, tweak spots, and workshop tips that keep shape and fantasy bits.
Selecting base size and grade incrementsGrading length versus girth separatelyProtecting style lines during gradingDefining standard alteration zonesPreparing cutter-friendly spec sheetsLesson 10Ease and mobility adjustments: stride allowance in skirt, lateral ease at armhole, and hem clearancesPlan room and moves all through the coat, keying on stride room in skirt, side room at armhole, and hem gaps. Test pattern shifts against dance, fights, and sits.
Calculating stride and kick allowancesAdding lateral ease at armhole and sideChecking reach, lift, and twist rangesAdjusting hem for boots and platformsBalancing ease with noble silhouetteLesson 11Mockup and toile workflow: sequence of fittings, marking alterations, and transferring changes to final patternBuild a clear trial and toile flow, from first fit to last pattern. Learn marking tweaks, noting moves, and shifting all changes true back to paper or digital files.
Building the first toile from the blockPrioritizing fit and movement checksMarking balance, drag lines, and easeTransferring changes to paper patternsVersion control for pattern updatesLesson 12Selecting the starting block: reasons to choose a fitted men’s jacket block for 18th-century inspired coatSpot why a fitted men’s jacket block is a smart start for an 18th-century style sorcerer coat, weighing fit, balance, and build traits that back big skirts, collars, and stage layers.
Assessing block fit, balance, and postureChecking armhole depth and sleeve positionEvaluating front edge and overlap potentialConfirming ease for layered stage garmentsMarking reference lines for later changesLesson 13Back pattern modifications: center back lengthening, box pleats, vent/tail constructionShift the back pattern for length, drama, and checked fullness. Plan centre back adds, vents, and tails, plus pleats that move well on stage with harnesses or mics.
Extending center back and waist seamDrafting single and double ventsDesigning box and inverted pleatsShaping tails for stage movementAccommodating harness and mic packsLesson 14Sleeve adaptations: 18th-century sleeve shapes, added fullness for turns, and wrist opening solutionsShift the sleeve from fitted jacket to 18th-century sorcerer style, adding turn-back cuffs, extra spin room, and wrist gaps for props, spell moves, and backstage dressing.
Rebalancing sleeve cap for mobilityAdding elbow and forearm fullnessDesigning cuffs and turn-back shapesPlanning wrist vents and placketsIntegrating lining and facing shapes
