Lesson 1Bolt belay construction: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor layouts, using slings and locking carabiners, creating a clean master pointBuild skills for clean, extra-safe bolt belays using fixed hangers, proper bolt-to-bolt links, slings, and locking carabiners, avoiding cross-loading, mess, and bad setup of the master point and rope systems.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor inspection and testing: visual checks, load-path reasoning, shock-loading considerations, and when to rebuildPractice checking anchors step by step with visual looks, touch tests, and load-path thinking to spot weak spots, shock-loading risks, and stretch problems, and learn when to fix or rebuild a belay anchor.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: principles of redundancy, equalization, independent anchors, and minimizing extensionMaster main anchor rules for multi-pitch belays, like extra pieces, equal pull, separate parts, and less stretch, then use them to check and improve real anchor examples and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Rigging rappels at belays: setting dedicated rappel rings, retrievable vs. non-retrievable rigging, single-point rappel vs. double-rope rappelsLearn how to set up safe, good rappels from belays, including when to use fixed rings, pullable systems, single-strand vs double-rope setups, and how to avoid stuck ropes, edge wear, and mix-ups at busy stations.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and redundancy: attachment of belay device to harness, backup methods (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device choices for multi-pitch belaysLook at best ways to place belay devices at the station, like harness vs anchor tie-in, backup ways like autoblocks and third hands, and picking right devices for multi-pitch belaying and lowering.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear layout and clipping protocol: where to rack active gear, where to stow unused gear, managing sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceLearn to sort gear at the belay so active pieces, spare hardware, and personal stuff are racked smart, away from sharp edges and loose blocks, and placed to speed changes while cutting tangles and drops.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs. sliding X vs. equalette vs. fixed loops—advantages, failure modes, and sizingCompare common anchor links—cordelette, sliding X, equalette, fixed loops—by looking at good points, limits, fail ways, and sizes, then learn when each works best on multi-pitch climbs.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: combining bolts and removable pro, decisions when rock is fractured or has loose blocksLearn to build strong anchors on mixed ground with bolts and removable pro, including ways for cracked or blocky rock, picking strongest spots, and deciding when to move or leave a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance organization at belay: positioning leader, second, and third person; space management on small ledges; fixed-line vs. hanging belaysLearn to arrange climbers and ropes at the belay, where leader, second, third stand or hang, manage space on small ledges, and when to use fixed lines or hanging belays for safety and speed.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay construction: selecting, placing, and orienting removable pro for anchor points, building a multi-point anchor with cams and nutsLearn to pick, place, and check removable protection for belay anchors, then join multiple pieces into extra-safe, well-set multi-point anchor using cams, nuts, and rock features on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull
