Lesson 1Automatic winding parts inspection: rotor bushings, reverser wheels, winding pawls, and reduction gear tooth checksCheck self-winding parts for wear and looseness in rotors, reversers, and gears, ensuring good two-way winding and no noise, drag, or early breakdowns after putting back together.
Rotor endshake and sideplay evaluationRotor axle, bearing, or bushing wearReverser wheel function and backlashPawl and click engagement surfacesReduction gear tooth and profile checksLesson 2Gasket and case component handling: removal, inspection, measurement for replacement, and preserving embedded diamonds/stone settingsLearn right ways to remove, check, and measure gaskets and case parts while guarding diamonds and stones, keeping water tightness, strength, and delicate settings safe in full service.
Case opening without stressing settingsGasket extraction and contamination controlDimensional checks and hardness assessmentIdentifying deformed or cut gasket profilesProtecting bezels with diamonds or stonesLesson 3Protecting case and jewelry finishes during service: non-abrasive clamps, protective films, padded holders for stones and white gold surfacesUse ways to shield cases and jewelry shines during service, with no-scratch clamps, films, and soft holders that stop marks on polished, brushed, stone-set, or plated surfaces.
Case holders with soft, shaped jawsProtective films on lugs and bezelsSecuring bracelets with stone settingsHandling white gold and rhodium platingFinal wipe-down and inspection for marksLesson 4Record-keeping of replaced parts, sourced original vs. OEM equivalents, and documenting any necessary jeweler referrals for stone tightening or gold repairKeep strict records of changed parts, telling original from maker copies, and note jeweler needs for tightening stones, fixing prongs, or metal fixes to track everything.
Service envelopes and job numberingListing original versus OEM componentsRecording serials, calibers, and datesDocumenting stone or case risk notesReferral forms for external jewelersLesson 5Step-by-step movement disassembly sequence for chronometer movements: removing rotor, bridges, gear train, escapement, balance, barrel, and keyless worksFollow exact take-apart order for chronometer movements, cutting risks to pivots, jewels, and escapement while keeping position notes for sure reassembly and timing.
Pre-disassembly checks and power let-downRotor and automatic module removalBridge and gear train extraction orderEscapement and balance safe handlingBarrel, keyless, and motion works removalLesson 6Cleaning strategy: ultrasonic cleaning cycles for non-lubricated parts, solvent choices for jewels and gold components, and drying protocolsPlan cleaning with ultrasonic machines and right cleaners for steel, brass, jewels, gold, using controlled rinse and dry to skip leftover dirt, spots, or harm to fine finishes.
Pre-cleaning degreasing and sortingBasket loading and part segregationUltrasonic cycle time and temperatureSolvent selection for jewels and goldDrying methods and contamination checksLesson 7Inspection procedures under loupe and microscope: checking jewel bearing integrity, pivot wear, bushings, and plating corrosionUse set check routines with loupe and scope to test jewel holes, pivots, bushings, plating, finding wear, cracks, rust, and old fixes that hit trust and swing.
Loupe magnification selection and useMicroscope setup and contrast controlJewel seating, chips, and cracksPivot polish, straightness, and shouldersBushing ovality and plating lossLesson 8Controlled environment preparation: bench setup, anti-static mats, soft padding, stone-safe trays, and parts organization (numbered trays)Set up clean, no-dirt bench for jeweled watches, with no-static mats, soft pads, stone-safe trays, and numbered labels to stop mix-ups or chance harm.
Lighting, magnification, and bench ergonomicsAnti-static mats and grounded tool placementSoft pads and dust-free surface managementStone-safe trays and lined parts containersNumbered trays and labeling conventionsLesson 9Barrel and mainspring evaluation: mainspring testing for set, measurements for replacement spec, and barrel wall/jewel condition checksBuild steady way to check barrel and mainspring health, with set tests, visual checks, size measures, and looks at walls, arbors, jewels for wear or scores.
Safe barrel opening and mainspring removalVisual inspection for set and surface cracksMeasuring length, width, and thicknessChecking barrel wall, floor, and arbor fitJewel and bushing wear around barrelLesson 10Safe removal of hands and dial with protecting the dial and applied markers, securing dial feet and preserving finishingMaster safe hand and dial removal while guarding weak finishes, markers, feet, using right levers, guards, supports to skip bends, scratches, or flakes.
Hand levers, protectors, and supportsCentering and lifting sequence for handsDial protector placement and selectionDial foot screw and clamp handlingStoring dials to avoid finish damage
