Lesson 1Superfatting and preservatives: what superfat means, typical percent ranges, and handling free oils; rancidity risks and antioxidant use (vitamin E, rosemary extract)Make clear what superfat means and how leftover oils make soap gentle, bubbly, and last longer on the shelf. Learn usual superfat amounts, which oils to hold back, and how things like vitamin E or rosemary help stop oils from going bad or smelling off in your soap bars.
Defining superfat and lye discountChoosing which oils to superfat withSuperfat levels for face, body, and shampooRecognizing and preventing DOS and rancidityUsing vitamin E and rosemary extract wiselyLesson 2Selecting oils for target skin types: formulations for sensitive, dry, normal, oily skin and trade-offsLearn how to pick oil mixes for sensitive, dry, normal, or oily skin. Compare cleaning power, softness, hardness, and the choices between gentleness, good bubbles, lasting time, and cost when making recipes for different skins.
Key fatty acids and their skin feelFormulating for sensitive or reactive skinDesigning bars for dry or mature skinBalancing recipes for normal or combo skinLow-residue bars for oily or acne-prone skinLesson 3Understanding trace and its impact on swirl techniques and batched consistencyKnow what trace is, spot its steps, and why it counts for feel and patterns. Learn to manage trace speed for swirls, layers, and add-ins while keeping the mix easy to work and strong.
Visual and textural signs of light traceMedium and thick trace and when to use themFactors that speed or slow traceTiming colorants and fragrance at traceTrace management for swirl techniquesLesson 4Fragrance choices: essential oils vs. fragrance oils, heat and alkali stability, skin-safety considerations and IFRA basicsCompare real plant oils and scent oils for cold process soap. Check how they hold up to heat and lye, color changes, safe amounts, and basic rules so your scented bars stay safe and smell good long.
Essential oil pros, cons, and safety limitsWorking with synthetic fragrance oilsAcceleration, ricing, and discoloration risksReading IFRA documents and usage tablesBlending scents for better longevityLesson 5Basic saponification chemistry: triglycerides, fatty acids, glycerin, and how lye converts oils to soapGet a good grasp of how lye turns oils into soap and glycerin. See why right lye amounts, clean supplies, and proper mixing order matter for safe, solid bars that work well.
Structure of triglycerides and fatty acidsWhat sodium hydroxide does in solutionThe saponification reaction step by stepRole and benefits of natural glycerinWhy accurate lye calculation is criticalLesson 6Common soap-making oils and butters: properties, typical fatty acid profiles, and functional impacts (hardness, lather, conditioning)Look at usual oils and butters for soap and how their parts affect hardness, bubbles, softness, and how they mix in water. Learn to blend them for steady, cheap base recipes that perform.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansingOleic-rich oils for conditioning and glidePalmitic and stearic acids for hardnessCastor oil and stable, creamy latherBuilding balanced base recipes from staplesLesson 7Role of liquid phase: water vs. distilled, herbal/tea infusions, milk, and impact on texture and traceSee how different liquids act in cold process soap, like clean water, herb brews, teas, or milk. Learn how the liquid kind and amount change trace speed, feel, color, smell hold, and drying time.
Why distilled water is the default solventWater discounts and their effect on traceWorking safely with milk and sugar-rich liquidsUsing herbal and tea infusions for color and scentManaging acceleration and overheating from liquidsLesson 8Additives and functional botanicals: clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, botanical powders and their skin effectsFind out how add-ins change soap feel and work. Learn to use clays, oats, black charcoal, scrub bits, and plant powders for smooth slip, calm skin, clean looks, and right scrub strength.
Using clays for slip, color, and oil anchoringColloidal oats and soothing additivesActivated charcoal for color and marketingChoosing gentle versus strong exfoliantsDispersing botanical powders to avoid clumpsLesson 9Common allergens and nut oils: identification, labeling implications, and alternatives for nut-free barsSpot usual things that cause allergies in soap, like nut oils and butters. Learn what to write on labels, cut mix-up risks, and swap in nut-free choices while keeping bar quality good.
Common allergenic oils and buttersReading supplier documentation and COAsLabeling practices for potential allergensDesigning nut-free or low-risk formulasCommunicating risks to sensitive customersLesson 10Natural colorants and pigments: mica, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric—staining risk, heat sensitivity, and pH stabilityKnow how plant colors act in strong lye soap. Compare shiny mica, clays, and plants like spirulina, annatto, turmeric on amounts, bleeding, stain chance, heat feel, and color hold over time.
Differences between micas and mineral pigmentsUsing cosmetic clays for color and slipGreen botanicals like spirulina and chlorellaWarm tones with annatto, turmeric, and paprikaPreventing fading, morphing, and staining issuesLesson 11Simple formulation metrics: percentages, parts by weight, batch scaling, and converting to grams for calculator useBuild trust in easy recipe math. Practice parts and weights, growing or shrinking recipes, and changing to grams so you use online lye tools right and safe.
Using baker’s percentages for oilsConverting between weight unitsScaling a test batch to production sizeEntering data correctly in lye calculatorsChecking water and lye ratios for safety