Lesson 1Measurement set required from the actor with movement allowances and quick-change considerationsFind actor's measure list for long showy coat, adding move and fast-swap room. Turn tape reads and body looks into base checks, pattern notes, fit musts for practice runs.
Core girth, length, and shoulder measuresMeasuring over base costume layersAdding reach, stride, and twist allowancesQuick-change ease and underdressing needsRecording asymmetries and posture notesLesson 2Fastening and dressing strategies: placement of hidden closures, snap systems, and emergency release pointsPlan hooks and dress ways with hidden shuts, snap sets, quick-free spots, making sorcerer coat look smooth but allow fast swaps and safe off-stage pulls.
Choosing visible versus hidden closuresPlacing snaps, hooks, and magnetsDesigning emergency release openingsRouting closures around mic cablesLabeling fronts for dressers and crewLesson 3Creating front pattern changes: lapel shape, chest fullness, and decorative seam placementsRedo front pattern for fine sorcerer style, shaping flaps, chest room, pretty joins that lead eyes, hold stitches, link skirt and collar lines.
Drafting new lapel and break lineControlling chest fullness and roll lineDesigning princess and panel seamsAligning seams with embroidery zonesBalancing fronts with skirt flareLesson 4Skirt and tail shaping: godets, gores, and flared skirts that maintain movement and do not entangleMake skirts and tails that spread big without catching actor. Use wedges, gores, shaped bits to rule fullness, hem spread, weight for safe stage walks.
Choosing skirt length and sweepPlacing gores and godets for flareControlling fullness at side seamsBalancing weight for turns and spinsShaping hem for stairs and platformsLesson 5Collar and neckline transformations: high-collar options, stand/roll structure, and reinforcement for dramatic shapesRebuild collar and neck for high show shapes. Check stand roll builds, hidden holds, stiffs that keep sorcerer collar steady in lights, sweat, fast swaps.
Raising neckline and front break pointDrafting stand and fall collar optionsAdding undercollar and canvas supportPlacing stays, wire, or rigileneManaging bulk at shoulder and neckLesson 6Final pattern validation: movement tests, light and costume-change simulationsCheck last pattern with move trials, light looks, swap plays. Make sure coat shows as fine sorcerer from all sides and holds practice hard use.
Movement tests for combat and danceSeated, kneeling, and stair trialsQuick-change and dresser rehearsalsChecking silhouette under stage lightFinalizing notes for build and repairsLesson 7Incorporating fantasy features into pattern: panel insets for embroidery, trim channels, and concealed wiring for shape retentionMix dream parts right in pattern, like panel gaps for stitches, trim paths, hidden wires or straps that hold big shapes comfy and easy to fix.
Planning embroidery and applique panelsDrafting trim and piping channelsHiding wiring and boning in seamsAllowing access for electronics repairMaintaining comfort under reinforcementsLesson 8Establishing the target silhouette: long skirted coat proportions, waist suppression, and shoulder linesSet sight goals for sorcerer coat from old refs, dream ideas, actor wants, then turn to sizes, balance, style lines for base jacket draft.
Analyzing 18th-century and fantasy referencesDetermining coat length and skirt proportionsPlanning waist suppression and flare balanceDesigning shoulder width and shoulder slopeMapping key style lines on the blockLesson 9Grading and repeatability: simple grading rules for multiple actor sizes and workshop handoffMake easy show-friendly size rules so sorcerer coat fits many actors. Note size groups, change spots, shop tips to keep shape and dream bits.
Selecting base size and grade incrementsGrading length versus girth separatelyProtecting style lines during gradingDefining standard alteration zonesPreparing cutter-friendly spec sheetsLesson 10Ease and mobility adjustments: stride allowance in skirt, lateral ease at armhole, and hem clearancesPlan room and moves all over coat, key on skirt step room, side arm room, hem gaps. Test changes vs dances, fights, sits.
Calculating stride and kick allowancesAdding lateral ease at armhole and sideChecking reach, lift, and twist rangesAdjusting hem for boots and platformsBalancing ease with noble silhouetteLesson 11Mockup and toile workflow: sequence of fittings, marking alterations, and transferring changes to final patternBuild clear test cloth flow, from first fit to last pattern. Learn mark changes, note moves, shift all right to paper or computer files.
Building the first toile from the blockPrioritizing fit and movement checksMarking balance, drag lines, and easeTransferring changes to paper patternsVersion control for pattern updatesLesson 12Selecting the starting block: reasons to choose a fitted men’s jacket block for 18th-century inspired coatSee why fitted men's jacket base works best for 1700s dream sorcerer coat, checking fit, balance, builds that hold big skirts, collars, stage cloths.
Assessing block fit, balance, and postureChecking armhole depth and sleeve positionEvaluating front edge and overlap potentialConfirming ease for layered stage garmentsMarking reference lines for later changesLesson 13Back pattern modifications: center back lengthening, box pleats, vent/tail constructionChange back pattern for length, show, ruled fullness. Plan back adds, splits, tails, pleats that move good on stage with straps or mics.
Extending center back and waist seamDrafting single and double ventsDesigning box and inverted pleatsShaping tails for stage movementAccommodating harness and mic packsLesson 14Sleeve adaptations: 18th-century sleeve shapes, added fullness for turns, and wrist opening solutionsShift sleeve from fitted jacket to 1700s dream sorcerer, adding fold cuffs, turn room, wrist gaps for props, spell moves, back-stage dress.
Rebalancing sleeve cap for mobilityAdding elbow and forearm fullnessDesigning cuffs and turn-back shapesPlanning wrist vents and placketsIntegrating lining and facing shapes
