Lesson 1Bolt belay construction: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor layouts, using slings and locking carabiners, creating a clean master pointDevelop skills for building clean, redundant bolt belays using fixed hangers, proper bolt-to-bolt connections, slings, and locking carabiners, while avoiding cross-loading, clutter, and poor orientation of the master point and rope systems.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor inspection and testing: visual checks, load-path reasoning, shock-loading considerations, and when to rebuildPractice systematic anchor inspection using visual checks, tactile tests, and load-path reasoning to identify weak links, shock-loading risks, and extension problems, and learn clear criteria for when to modify or fully rebuild a belay anchor.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: principles of redundancy, equalization, independent anchors, and minimizing extensionMaster core anchor principles for multi-pitch belays, including redundancy, equalization, independence of components, and minimizing extension, then apply them to evaluate and improve real-world anchor examples and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Rigging rappels at belays: setting dedicated rappel rings, retrievable vs. non-retrievable rigging, single-point rappel vs. double-rope rappelsUnderstand how to rig safe, efficient rappels from belays, including when to use fixed rings, retrievable systems, single-strand versus double-rope setups, and how to minimize stuck ropes, edge wear, and confusion at crowded stations.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and redundancy: attachment of belay device to harness, backup methods (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device choices for multi-pitch belaysExplore best practices for placing belay devices at the station, including harness versus anchor attachment, backup methods such as autoblocks and third hands, and choosing appropriate devices for multi-pitch belaying and lowering.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear layout and clipping protocol: where to rack active gear, where to stow unused gear, managing sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceLearn how to organize gear at the belay so that active pieces, spare hardware, and personal items are racked logically, kept away from sharp edges and loose blocks, and positioned to speed transitions while reducing tangles and dropped gear.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs. sliding X vs. equalette vs. fixed loops—advantages, failure modes, and sizingCompare common anchor connection methods—cordelette, sliding X, equalette, and fixed loops—by examining their advantages, limitations, failure modes, and sizing choices, then learn when each system is most appropriate on multi-pitch climbs.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: combining bolts and removable pro, decisions when rock is fractured or has loose blocksUnderstand how to build reliable anchors on mixed terrain that combines bolts and removable protection, including strategies for fractured or blocky rock, prioritizing the strongest features, and deciding when to move or abandon a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance organization at belay: positioning leader, second, and third person; space management on small ledges; fixed-line vs. hanging belaysLearn to organize climbers and ropes at the belay, including where the leader, second, and third stand or hang, how to manage space on tiny ledges, and when to use fixed lines or fully hanging belays for safety and efficiency.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay construction: selecting, placing, and orienting removable pro for anchor points, building a multi-point anchor with cams and nutsLearn to select, place, and evaluate removable protection for belay anchors, then combine multiple pieces into a redundant, well-oriented, and manageable multi-point anchor using cams, nuts, and terrain features on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull
