Lesson 1Navigation and communication gear: map/compass/GPS principles for alpine approaches, altimeter use, VHF/PLB/satellite messenger options and battery planningReviews navigation and communication tools for alpine approaches, including map, compass, GPS, and altimeter use, plus VHF, PLB, and satellite messengers, with emphasis on redundancy, batteries, and cold‑weather power management.
Map and compass for alpine approachesGPS use, tracks, and waypointsAltimeter calibration and checksVHF, PLB, and satellite messengersBattery strategy in cold conditionsLesson 2Clothing and layering systems for high-alpine ice: base layers, mid layers, insulating shells, and dexterity vs warmth tradeoffsDetails clothing systems for cold alpine ice, including moisture‑managing base layers, active mid layers, shell options, and hand systems that balance dexterity and warmth while preventing sweat buildup and rapid heat loss.
Moisture‑managing base layersActive insulation and mid layersShell jackets and softshell pantsGlove systems and dexterity tradeoffsManaging sweat, wind, and rest stopsLesson 3Emergency and first-aid kit contents: trauma vs wilderness first aid items, splints, blister care, hypothermia treatment items, evacuation packagingDefines a compact emergency kit for alpine ice, separating trauma care from wilderness problems, with splints, blister care, hypothermia tools, and lightweight packaging that supports improvised evacuations in steep terrain.
Trauma supplies for bleeding controlSplints and immobilization optionsBlister prevention and treatmentHypothermia recognition and responseEvacuation packaging and littersLesson 4Footwear, crampons, and gaiters: boot stiffness, crampon models (step-in vs hybrid), anti-balling solutions and fit protocolAnalyzes boots, crampons, and gaiters for alpine ice, emphasizing boot stiffness, crampon binding styles and fit, anti‑balling solutions, and a stepwise fitting protocol that prevents hot spots and accidental crampon loss.
Boot stiffness and insulation levelsStep‑in vs hybrid crampon bindingsFrontpoint shapes for WI3–WI4 iceAnti‑balling plates and maintenanceCrampon fit checks and adjustmentsLesson 5Ropes and belay devices: single vs half/dual ropes for alpine terrain, dry treatments, length choices, and friction devices for lowering and rappelExamines rope choices for WI3–WI4 alpine routes, comparing single and half ropes, dry treatments, and optimal lengths, along with belay and rappel devices suited to skinny, icy ropes and efficient multipitch transitions.
Single vs half and twin rope systemsDry coatings and water absorptionRope diameter, length, and handlingBelay devices for thin icy ropesLowering, rappelling, and backupsLesson 6Packing and weight management: grouping items by function, minimising exposure while preserving redundancy, and pre-trip gear checksFocuses on packing strategies that balance safety and efficiency, grouping items by function, minimizing exposure time at belays, preserving essential redundancy, and using pre‑trip gear checks to catch critical omissions.
Grouping gear by function and phaseBalancing redundancy and minimalismPack layout for fast accessShared team gear and load splittingPre‑trip and pre‑climb gear checksLesson 7Ice tools and tool selection: vertical vs mixed tools, leash/no-leash debate, pick types, and backup tool considerationsExplores choosing ice tools for WI3–WI4 routes, comparing vertical and mixed designs, leashless versus leashed setups, pick shapes and steel hardness, and carrying backups or repair kits for remote alpine objectives.
Vertical vs mixed tool geometryLeashless vs leashed configurationsPick profiles, teeth, and steelGrip rests and pommel ergonomicsSpare tools, picks, and hardwareLesson 8Harness, helmet, personal safety items: harness fit, leg loops, adjustable vs non-adjustable, helmet fit and replacement criteriaCovers selecting and fitting harnesses and helmets for long ice days, including sizing, adjustment, compatibility with winter layers, inspection routines, and replacement timelines to maintain comfort and impact protection.
Harness sizing over winter layersLeg loop styles and adjustmentGear loop layout for ice racksHelmet fit, coverage, and comfortInspection and retirement criteriaLesson 9Protection hardware: ice screw types, lengths, and materials; v-thread/Abalakov cordage choices; alpine vs sport ice anchorsCovers ice protection hardware for WI3–WI4, including screw types, lengths, and materials, v‑thread cordage and tools, and building secure alpine anchors that differ from dense sport ice protection strategies.
Steel vs aluminum ice screw optionsScrew lengths and rack compositionSharpening, caps, and storageV‑thread tools and cord selectionAlpine anchor strategies vs sport
