Lesson 1Superfatting and preservatives: wetin superfat mean, normal percent ranges, and how to handle free oils; risks of rancidity and use of antioxidants (vitamin E, rosemary extract)Make clear wetin superfat mean and how free oils dey make soap mild, affect lather, and shelf life. Learn normal superfat ranges, how to pick which oils to hold back, and how antioxidants dey help slow down rancidity and DOS in di finished bars.
Defining superfat and lye discountChoosing which oils to superfat withSuperfat levels for face, body, and shampooRecognizing and preventing DOS and rancidityUsing vitamin E and rosemary extract wiselyLesson 2Selecting oils for target skin types: formulations for sensitive, dry, normal, oily skin and trade-offsLearn how to match oil blends to sensitive, dry, normal, and oily skin. Compare cleansing, conditioning, and hardness, and sabi di trade-offs between mildness, bubbly lather, longevity, and cost when you dey design recipes for dem.
Key fatty acids and their skin feelFormulating for sensitive or reactive skinDesigning bars for dry or mature skinBalancing recipes for normal or combo skinLow-residue bars for oily or acne-prone skinLesson 3Understanding trace and its impact on swirl techniques and batched consistencySabi wetin trace be, how to spot its stages, and why e matter for texture and design. Learn to control trace speed so you fit do swirls, layers, and embeds while di batter still dey workable and strong.
Visual and textural signs of light traceMedium and thick trace and when to use themFactors that speed or slow traceTiming colorants and fragrance at traceTrace management for swirl techniquesLesson 4Fragrance choices: essential oils vs. fragrance oils, heat and alkali stability, skin-safety considerations and IFRA basicsCompare essential oils and fragrance oils for cold process soap. Check heat and alkali stability, risks of discoloration, usage rates, and IFRA guidelines so you fit make fragrant bars wey dey safe and dey last.
Essential oil pros, cons, and safety limitsWorking with synthetic fragrance oilsAcceleration, ricing, and discoloration risksReading IFRA documents and usage tablesBlending scents for better longevityLesson 5Basic saponification chemistry: triglycerides, fatty acids, glycerin, and how lye converts oils to soapGet clear picture of saponification chemistry: how triglycerides and lye dey react to form soap and glycerin. Learn why exact lye calculation, purity, and correct mixing order dey important for safe, stable bars.
Structure of triglycerides and fatty acidsWhat sodium hydroxide does in solutionThe saponification reaction step by stepRole and benefits of natural glycerinWhy accurate lye calculation is criticalLesson 6Common soap-making oils and butters: properties, typical fatty acid profiles, and functional impacts (hardness, lather, conditioning)Check di common oils and butters for soap making and how their fatty acid profiles dey affect hardness, lather, conditioning, and solubility. Learn to mix dem into balanced, stable, and cheap base recipes.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansingOleic-rich oils for conditioning and glidePalmitic and stearic acids for hardnessCastor oil and stable, creamy latherBuilding balanced base recipes from staplesLesson 7Role of liquid phase: water vs. distilled, herbal/tea infusions, milk, and impact on texture and traceCheck how different liquids dey behave in cold process soap, like distilled water, herbal infusions, teas, and milks. Learn how liquid type and amount dey affect trace speed, texture, color, scent retention, and cure time.
Why distilled water is the default solventWater discounts and their effect on traceWorking safely with milk and sugar-rich liquidsUsing herbal and tea infusions for color and scentManaging acceleration and overheating from liquidsLesson 8Additives and functional botanicals: clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, botanical powders and their skin effectsFind out how functional additives dey change di feel and performance of soap. Learn to use clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, and botanical powders for slip, soothing, detox look, and controlled scrub.
Using clays for slip, color, and oil anchoringColloidal oats and soothing additivesActivated charcoal for color and marketingChoosing gentle versus strong exfoliantsDispersing botanical powders to avoid clumpsLesson 9Common allergens and nut oils: identification, labeling implications, and alternatives for nut-free barsSpot common allergenic things in soap, especially nut oils and butters. Learn labeling rules, how to reduce cross-contact risk, and how to change to nut-free options while keeping bar performance.
Common allergenic oils and buttersReading supplier documentation and COAsLabeling practices for potential allergensDesigning nut-free or low-risk formulasCommunicating risks to sensitive customersLesson 10Natural colorants and pigments: mica, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric—staining risk, heat sensitivity, and pH stabilitySabi how natural colorants dey behave in high-pH soap. Compare micas, clays, and botanicals like spirulina, annatto, and turmeric, focusing on usage rates, bleeding, staining risk, heat sensitivity, and color stability.
Differences between micas and mineral pigmentsUsing cosmetic clays for color and slipGreen botanicals like spirulina and chlorellaWarm tones with annatto, turmeric, and paprikaPreventing fading, morphing, and staining issuesLesson 11Simple formulation metrics: percentages, parts by weight, batch scaling, and converting to grams for calculator useBuild confidence with basic formulation math. Practice percentages and parts by weight, scaling recipes up or down, and converting ounces to grams so you fit use online lye calculators correct and safe.
Using baker’s percentages for oilsConverting between weight unitsScaling a test batch to production sizeEntering data correctly in lye calculatorsChecking water and lye ratios for safety