Lesson 1pH adjustment and chelating agents: EDTA/GLDA roles and recommended levelsExamine pH adjustment and chelating agents in hair care. Learn how acids, bases, and buffers set target pH, and how EDTA, GLDA, and alternatives bind metals, improve preservative performance, and protect hair colour and stability in formulations.
Target pH ranges for key hair product typesAcids, bases and buffer systems in formulasChelation chemistry and metal ion controlEDTA, GLDA and emerging chelatorsRecommended use levels and compatibilityLesson 2Rheology modifiers, thickeners and texture agents: carbomers, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, associative thickenersUnderstand rheology modifiers and texture agents that control viscosity and feel. Compare carbomers, xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives, and associative thickeners, and learn how salts, pH, and surfactants influence their behaviour in hair products.
Viscosity, yield stress and sensorial impactCarbomers and neutralisation requirementsXanthan and cellulose gums in surfactant systemsAssociative thickeners and micelle interactionTroubleshooting instability and phase separationLesson 3Proteins, peptides and keratin derivatives: roles, molecular weight effects and compatibilityInvestigate proteins, peptides, and keratin derivatives in hair care. Learn how molecular weight, charge, and modification affect penetration, film formation, feel, and compatibility with surfactants, conditioners, and styling polymers for better efficacy.
Protein sources and hydrolysis processesMolecular weight and hair penetrationCationic vs anionic protein derivativesKeratin analogs and bond-mimicking claimsCompatibility with surfactants and cationicsLesson 4Conditioning agents: cationic surfactants, silicones, quaternary ammoniums, polyquaterniums — mechanisms and INCI namesExplore conditioning agents that improve slip, softness, and manageability. Compare cationic surfactants, silicones, quats, and polyquaterniums, their mechanisms on hair, INCI naming, buildup risk, and strategies for lighter systems in daily use.
Cationic surfactants and lamellar structuresSilicone types, volatility and depositionQuats, polyquats and charge density effectsINCI naming conventions for conditionersBalancing conditioning, buildup and rinseabilityLesson 5Surfactants: anionic, amphoteric, nonionic — selection, mildness, foaming and concentration rangesStudy surfactant classes used in hair cleansing and conditioning. Compare anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic systems, their mildness, foaming, and conditioning effects, and learn to design blends and concentration ranges for each format effectively.
Anionic surfactants and cleansing strengthAmphoteric surfactants and mildness boostingNonionic surfactants and solubilisation rolesDesigning surfactant blends for shampoosActive matter, dilution and usage rangesLesson 6Emollients and oils: esters, fatty alcohols, natural oils and butters — polarity, spreadability and compatibilityExplore emollient chemistry in hair care, comparing esters, fatty alcohols, natural oils, and butters. Learn how polarity, spreadability, and compatibility affect slip, build-up, stability, and performance in different product formats for optimal results.
Ester structure, polarity and sensory profileFatty alcohols for structure, slip and stabilityNatural oils, butters and fatty acid profilesPolarity, solubility and phase compatibilityChoosing emollients for product type and hair needLesson 7Functional actives and botanicals: antioxidants, UV filters, anti-dandruff actives, anti-inflammatory extracts — efficacy and evidenceAnalyse functional actives and botanicals used for scalp and fibre benefits. Cover antioxidants, UV filters, anti-dandruff agents, and anti-inflammatory extracts, focusing on mechanisms, evidence quality, and realistic claim support for formulations.
Antioxidants and protection from oxidative stressUV filters for hair colour and scalp defenceAnti-dandruff actives and regulatory statusBotanical extracts and anti-inflammatory claimsEvaluating evidence and building claim dossiersLesson 8Fragrance, colourants and sensitisers: common allergens, limits and safer alternativesReview fragrance, colourants, and sensitisers in hair products. Identify common allergens, labelling rules, and typical limits, and explore strategies for safer, low-sensitising scent and colour design that still meets consumer expectations effectively.
Fragrance chemistry and allergen sourcesIFRA, labelling and allergen disclosureColourant types and regulatory categoriesSensitisation mechanisms and risk factorsDesigning lower-risk scent and colour systemsLesson 9Preservative systems: broad-spectrum options, typical concentrations, selection by pH and rinse-off vs leave-inLearn how preservative systems protect hair products from microbes. Compare broad-spectrum options, effective use levels, pH windows, and regulatory limits, and adapt systems for rinse-off, leave-in, and sensitive-scalp formulations for safety.
Microbial risks in hair formulationsCommon preservative chemistries and modespH-dependent efficacy and stabilityDesigning systems for rinse-off vs leave-inRegulatory, safety and consumer concernsLesson 10Humectants and film-formers: glycerin, propanediol, panthenol, polymers — what they do and recommended levelsUnderstand humectants and film-formers that manage moisture and feel. Compare glycerin, propanediol, panthenol, and key polymers, their water-binding behaviour, recommended levels, and how they influence frizz, curl retention, and buildup in products.
Water activity, humectancy and hair hydrationGlycerin, propanediol and other small humectantsPanthenol and multifunctional moisturisersFilm-forming polymers for hold and frizz controlUsage levels and climate-dependent strategies
