Lesson 1Common contaminants and their chemical impacts (metal ions, residual acid)Spot common contaminants like metal ions, leftover acids, and impurities in water or raw materials. Understand how they cause rancidity, DOS, texture problems, and colour shifts, plus ways to prevent or fix them.
Sources of metal ions in typical soap studiosChelators to bind metals and prevent DOSResidual acid or lye imbalance problemsEffects of impure water and storage conditionsTesting and documenting contamination issuesLesson 2How oil blends affect hardness, lather, conditioning, cleansing and longevityDiscover how various oil blends manage hardness, lather quality, conditioning sensation, cleansing power, and bar lifespan. Link fatty acid info to actual bar results and create balanced recipes for specific needs.
Balancing hard and soft oils in a base recipeDesigning for creamy vs bubbly lather profilesManaging cleansing vs mildness in daily soapsFormulating for longevity and low mushinessUsing calculators to predict bar propertiesLesson 3Principles of saponification: triglycerides, fatty acids, NaOH reaction, heat and timeGrasp the saponification process from triglycerides to soap and glycerin. See how NaOH levels, temperature, stirring, and curing time impact trace, gel phase, reaction completeness, and final bar quality.
From triglycerides to soap and glycerinEffect of lye concentration on trace speedTemperature control, gel phase, and insulationTime, cure, and completion of saponificationRecognizing and avoiding false trace issuesLesson 4Common oils and butters: detailed properties of olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, cocoa butterExamine the chemistry and traits of key soaping oils and butters like olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, and cocoa butter, to make smart swaps and adjust recipes for cost and performance.
Olive oil grades and their soaping behaviorCoconut oil levels and skin tolerance limitsPalm and alternatives for sustainable hardnessShea, cocoa, and luxury butters in formulasCastor and sunflower as supporting liquid oilsLesson 5pH testing, titration basics, and typical soap pH ranges during cure and at useTrack how soap pH evolves from pour to full cure, test it properly, and know safe ranges for skin. Master titration basics to check neutralisation and fix harsh or unstable batches.
Using pH strips and meters correctly in soapInterpreting pH during gel and cure stagesSafe pH ranges for body, face, and household barsSimple titration to check excess lye or fatCorrecting batches with off‑spec pH readingsLesson 6Superfatting: purpose, free oils, choice of superfatting agents, effect on shelf life and rancidityUnderstand why we superfat, pick suitable oils for it, and see how amount and timing affect gentleness, lather, oxidation, and DOS risks. Balance skin feel with long shelf life.
Reasons to superfat and typical usage rangesChoosing which oils to reserve as superfatsIn‑the‑pot vs lye discount superfat methodsSuperfat level, oxidation, and DOS formationDesigning stable superfatted commercial barsLesson 7Fatty acid profiles and functional contributions: lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleicReview main fatty acids and their roles in lather, hardness, solubility, and conditioning. Read profiles and predict performance when creating or tweaking cold process formulas.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansing latherPalmitic and stearic acids for hardness and longevityOleic and linoleic for conditioning and glideRicinoleic acid and its lather boosting roleReading and comparing fatty acid chartsLesson 8Role of water and liquid substitutes (milk, tea, hydrosols) in trace and reaction rateLearn water's role and substitutes like milk, tea, hydrosols in dissolving lye, managing trace, gel, and heat. See how discounts and swaps impact safety, texture, and cure time.
Lye solution strength and safe mixing ratiosWater discount and its effect on trace speedUsing milks and teas as full or partial waterManaging heat, gel, and potential overheatingAdjusting cure time for different water levelsLesson 9Soap molecules: surfactant structure, micelles, pH and skin compatibilityExplore soap as a surfactant: structure, micelle formation, and how pH, water hardness, formulation affect gentleness and skin fit while ensuring good cleansing.
Hydrophilic heads and hydrophobic tailsHow micelles lift and suspend soilsImpact of pH on skin barrier and feelWater hardness, scum, and chelating agentsFormulating for sensitive or dry skin typesLesson 10Role of additives (clays, botanicals, milks, sugars) on chemistry and preservation concernsSee how clays, botanicals, milks, sugars interact with lye and fats, affect trace, colour, lather, and bring preservation or spoilage risks to handle carefully.
Clays for slip, color, and oil absorptionBotanical powders and risk of discolorationUsing milks safely without scorching or spoilageSugars, honey, and heat management in moldsWhen and how to use preservatives or chelators
