Lesson 1Automatic winding parts inspection: rotor bushings, reverser wheels, winding pawls, and reduction gear tooth checksInspect automatic winding systems for wear and play in rotors, reversers, and reduction gears, ensuring efficient bidirectional winding and preventing noise, drag, or premature failure after reassembly.
Rotor endshake and sideplay evaluationRotor axle, bearing, or bushing wearReverser wheel function and backlashPawl and click engagement surfacesReduction gear tooth and profile checksLesson 2Gasket and case component handling: removal, inspection, measurement for replacement, and preserving embedded diamonds/stone settingsLearn correct removal, inspection, and measurement of gaskets and case parts while safeguarding diamonds and other stones, ensuring water resistance, structural integrity, and preservation of delicate settings during full service.
Case opening without stressing settingsGasket extraction and contamination controlDimensional checks and hardness assessmentIdentifying deformed or cut gasket profilesProtecting bezels with diamonds or stonesLesson 3Protecting case and jewelry finishes during service: non-abrasive clamps, protective films, padded holders for stones and white gold surfacesImplement methods to shield cases and jewelry finishes during service, using non-abrasive clamps, protective films, and padded holders that prevent marring of polished, brushed, stone-set, or rhodium-plated surfaces.
Case holders with soft, shaped jawsProtective films on lugs and bezelsSecuring bracelets with stone settingsHandling white gold and rhodium platingFinal wipe-down and inspection for marksLesson 4Record-keeping of replaced parts, sourced original vs. OEM equivalents, and documenting any necessary jeweler referrals for stone tightening or gold repairEstablish rigorous records of replaced parts, distinguishing original from OEM equivalents, and document any required jeweler interventions for stone tightening, prong repair, or case metal restoration to maintain traceability.
Service envelopes and job numberingListing original versus OEM componentsRecording serials, calibers, and datesDocumenting stone or case risk notesReferral forms for external jewelersLesson 5Step-by-step movement disassembly sequence for chronometer movements: removing rotor, bridges, gear train, escapement, balance, barrel, and keyless worksFollow a precise, repeatable disassembly order for chronometer movements, minimizing risk to pivots, jewels, and escapement parts while maintaining orientation references for reliable reassembly and timing performance.
Pre-disassembly checks and power let-downRotor and automatic module removalBridge and gear train extraction orderEscapement and balance safe handlingBarrel, keyless, and motion works removalLesson 6Cleaning strategy: ultrasonic cleaning cycles for non-lubricated parts, solvent choices for jewels and gold components, and drying protocolsDesign cleaning workflows using ultrasonic machines and appropriate solutions for steel, brass, jewels, and gold, with controlled rinsing and drying methods that avoid residue, spotting, or damage to delicate finishes.
Pre-cleaning degreasing and sortingBasket loading and part segregationUltrasonic cycle time and temperatureSolvent selection for jewels and goldDrying methods and contamination checksLesson 7Inspection procedures under loupe and microscope: checking jewel bearing integrity, pivot wear, bushings, and plating corrosionApply structured inspection routines under loupe and microscope to evaluate jewel bearings, pivots, bushings, and plating, identifying wear, cracks, corrosion, and prior repair traces that affect reliability and amplitude.
Loupe magnification selection and useMicroscope setup and contrast controlJewel seating, chips, and cracksPivot polish, straightness, and shouldersBushing ovality and plating lossLesson 8Controlled environment preparation: bench setup, anti-static mats, soft padding, stone-safe trays, and parts organization (numbered trays)Prepare a controlled, contamination-free bench environment tailored to jeweled watches, focusing on anti-static control, soft impact protection, stone-safe trays, and systematic parts labeling to prevent mix-ups or accidental damage.
Lighting, magnification, and bench ergonomicsAnti-static mats and grounded tool placementSoft pads and dust-free surface managementStone-safe trays and lined parts containersNumbered trays and labeling conventionsLesson 9Barrel and mainspring evaluation: mainspring testing for set, measurements for replacement spec, and barrel wall/jewel condition checksDevelop a systematic approach to evaluating barrel and mainspring health, including tests for set, visual defect checks, dimensional measurements, and inspection of barrel walls, arbors, and associated jewels for wear or scoring.
Safe barrel opening and mainspring removalVisual inspection for set and surface cracksMeasuring length, width, and thicknessChecking barrel wall, floor, and arbor fitJewel and bushing wear around barrelLesson 10Safe removal of hands and dial with protecting the dial and applied markers, securing dial feet and preserving finishingMaster safe techniques for removing hands and dials while protecting fragile finishes, applied markers, and dial feet, using proper levers, guards, and supports to avoid bending, scratching, or flaking.
Hand levers, protectors, and supportsCentering and lifting sequence for handsDial protector placement and selectionDial foot screw and clamp handlingStoring dials to avoid finish damage
