Lesson 1Antioxidants and brightening agents: vitamin C (L-ascorbic acid vs derivatives), vitamin E, niacinamide, kojic acid, tranexamic acid — efficacy, stability, irritation riskCovers antioxidant and brightening agents, comparing vitamin C forms, vitamin E synergy, niacinamide multitarget actions, and kojic and tranexamic acids. Addresses stability, packaging, irritation risk, and realistic expectations for tone improvement in New Zealand climates.
L-ascorbic acid versus stable derivativespH, concentration, and vitamin C stabilityVitamin E and antioxidant network synergyNiacinamide for barrier and dyschromiaKojic and tranexamic acids in melasmaIrritation risk and tolerability strategiesLesson 2Hydrators and humectants: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, urea, propylene glycol — molecular weight considerations, concentrations, application guidanceDetails major humectants and hydrators, focusing on hyaluronic acid molecular weights, optimal concentrations, vehicle choice, layering with other actives, and counselling for dry skin, barrier impairment, and adjuvant use with irritant therapies in humid New Zealand conditions.
Hyaluronic acid molecular weight profilesGlycerin and classic humectant mechanismsRole of urea at low and high strengthsPropylene glycol and related glycolsChoosing textures for dry and oily skinLayering hydrators with active treatmentsLesson 3Retinoids and retinal alternatives: retinol, adapalene, tretinoin — activity, dose-ranging, irritation management, contraindications (pregnancy)Explores topical retinoids and retinal alternatives, covering mechanisms, strength selection, titration schedules, irritation mitigation, combination routines, and strict safety considerations, including pregnancy, lactation, and photosensitivity issues relevant to New Zealand sun exposure.
Retinoid receptor targets and skin actionsPotency ranking of common topical retinoidsStarting doses and titration schedulesManaging irritation and retinoid dermatitisRetinoids in acne, photoaging, and melasmaPregnancy, lactation, and safety counselingLesson 4Agents for hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks: hydroquinone mechanism and safety, alternatives and combination strategiesAddresses agents for hyperpigmentation and post-inflammatory marks, detailing hydroquinone mechanisms, strengths, treatment duration, and safety. Reviews non-hydroquinone alternatives and rational combination protocols to enhance efficacy and safety for diverse New Zealand skin types.
Melanogenesis targets of hydroquinoneHydroquinone strengths and treatment cyclesSafety, ochronosis, and monitoringNon-hydroquinone lightening optionsCombination regimens and cycling plansCounseling on sun protection and relapseLesson 5Photoprotection actives and filters: physical vs chemical sunscreens, broad-spectrum protection, SPF vs UVA metrics, photostability and formulation tipsAnalyses UV filters and photoprotective actives, contrasting organic and inorganic filters, SPF and UVA metrics, photostability, and formulation aesthetics. Guides selection for sensitive, acne-prone, and hyperpigmented skin, plus patient counselling tailored to New Zealand's variable UV levels.
Organic versus inorganic UV filtersSPF, UVA-PF, and critical wavelengthPhotostability and filter combinationsTexture, finish, and skin type matchingAdjunct antioxidants in sunscreensCounseling on correct dose and reapplicationLesson 6Interactions, systemic absorption, and contraindications: pregnancy/lactation considerations, interactions with systemic medications, cumulative irritation riskDiscusses systemic absorption, cumulative irritation, and contraindications of dermocosmetic actives. Covers pregnancy and lactation guidance, interactions with systemic drugs, polyactive routines, and pharmacist strategies to minimise overall risk in New Zealand practice.
Percutaneous absorption determinantsPregnancy and lactation risk categoriesInteractions with topical and oral drugsCumulative irritation from multi-activesHigh-risk areas and compromised skinPharmacy triage and referral criteriaLesson 7Soothing agents and anti-redness ingredients: centella asiatica, allantoin, feverfew, bisabolol, colloidal oatmeal — evidence and practical useReviews soothing and anti-redness ingredients, including centella, allantoin, feverfew, bisabolol, and colloidal oatmeal. Discusses mechanisms, clinical evidence, formulation types, and how to integrate them into regimens for rosacea and sensitive skin in New Zealand environments.
Centella asiatica triterpenes and repairAllantoin and epidermal soothing actionsFeverfew and botanical anti-inflammatory dataBisabolol and chamomile-derived activesColloidal oatmeal and barrier supportUse in rosacea, post-procedure, and eczemaLesson 8Anti-inflammatory and barrier-restoring agents: niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acids — uses for sensitive and dry skinFocuses on anti-inflammatory and barrier-restoring agents, including niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Explains barrier lipid ratios, product selection for sensitive skin, and support during irritant treatments suited to New Zealand's dry winters.
Niacinamide for inflammation and barrierPanthenol and stratum corneum hydrationCeramide classes and skin lipid balanceCholesterol and free fatty acid rolesIdeal lipid ratios in moisturizersRegimen design for sensitive dry skinLesson 9Keratolytics and comedolytics: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid — mechanisms, concentrations, formulations, adverse effectsExamines keratolytic and comedolytic agents such as salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid. Discusses mechanisms, concentration ranges, vehicles, combination regimens, and strategies to limit irritation, staining, and barrier disruption in pharmacy settings.
Salicylic acid penetration and comedolysisBenzoyl peroxide antimicrobial actionsAzelaic acid for acne and dyschromiaLeave-on versus rinse-off formulationsCombining with retinoids and antibioticsIrritation, staining, and dryness control
