Lesson 1Bolt belay construction: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor layouts, using slings and locking carabiners, creating a clean master pointBuild skills for strong, extra-safe bolt belays using fixed hangers, proper bolt-to-bolt links, slings, and locking carabiners, avoiding cross-loading, mess, and bad master point or rope setup.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor inspection and testing: visual checks, load-path reasoning, shock-loading considerations, and when to rebuildPractice proper anchor checks using visual looks, touch tests, and load-path thinking to find weak spots, shock-loading risks, and extension issues, and know when to fix or rebuild a belay anchor.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: principles of redundancy, equalization, independent anchors, and minimizing extensionMaster main anchor principles for multi-pitch belays, like extra safety, equalizing, independent parts, and less extension, then use them to check and improve real anchors and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Rigging rappels at belays: setting dedicated rappel rings, retrievable vs. non-retrievable rigging, single-point rappel vs. double-rope rappelsKnow how to set up safe, good rappels from belays, including fixed rings, retrievable systems, single vs double-rope, and avoid stuck ropes, edge damage, and confusion at busy stations.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and redundancy: attachment of belay device to harness, backup methods (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device choices for multi-pitch belaysCheck best ways to place belay devices at station, harness vs anchor tie-in, backups like autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand, and pick right devices for multi-pitch belay and lowering.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear layout and clipping protocol: where to rack active gear, where to stow unused gear, managing sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceLearn to arrange gear at belay so active pieces, spares, and personal stuff are racked smartly, away from sharp edges and loose blocks, positioned for quick changes without tangles or drops.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs. sliding X vs. equalette vs. fixed loops—advantages, failure modes, and sizingCompare anchor connection methods—cordelette, sliding X, equalette, fixed loops—by pros, cons, failure ways, sizing, and know when each works best on multi-pitch climbs.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: combining bolts and removable pro, decisions when rock is fractured or has loose blocksKnow how to build strong anchors on mixed ground with bolts and removable pro, strategies for cracked or blocky rock, pick strongest spots, and decide when to move or leave a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance organization at belay: positioning leader, second, and third person; space management on small ledges; fixed-line vs. hanging belaysLearn to arrange climbers and ropes at belay, where leader, second, third stand or hang, manage space on small ledges, and use fixed lines or hanging belays for safety and speed.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay construction: selecting, placing, and orienting removable pro for anchor points, building a multi-point anchor with cams and nutsLearn to pick, place, and check removable pro for belay anchors, then make multi-point anchor with cams, nuts, and terrain on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull
