Lesson 1Automatic winding parts inspection: rotor bushings, reverser wheels, winding pawls, and reduction gear tooth checksCheck auto-winding parts for wear and looseness in rotors, reversers, pawls, and gears, to ensure smooth bidirectional winding without noise, drag, or early breakdowns after reassembly.
Rotor endshake and sideplay evaluationRotor axle, bearing, or bushing wearReverser wheel function and backlashPawl and click engagement surfacesReduction gear tooth and profile checksLesson 2Gasket and case component handling: removal, inspection, measurement for replacement, and preserving embedded diamonds/stone settingsLearn proper gasket and case part removal, checks, and sizing for replacements while protecting diamonds and stones, to keep water resistance, strength, and delicate settings safe in full service.
Case opening without stressing settingsGasket extraction and contamination controlDimensional checks and hardness assessmentIdentifying deformed or cut gasket profilesProtecting bezels with diamonds or stonesLesson 3Protecting case and jewelry finishes during service: non-abrasive clamps, protective films, padded holders for stones and white gold surfacesUse ways to protect cases and jewellery finishes in service with non-scratch clamps, films, and soft holders that avoid marks on polished, brushed, stone-set, or plated surfaces.
Case holders with soft, shaped jawsProtective films on lugs and bezelsSecuring bracelets with stone settingsHandling white gold and rhodium platingFinal wipe-down and inspection for marksLesson 4Record-keeping of replaced parts, sourced original vs. OEM equivalents, and documenting any necessary jeweler referrals for stone tightening or gold repairKeep detailed records of swapped parts, original vs OEM, and note any jeweller needs for stone tightening, prong fixes, or gold repairs to track everything properly.
Service envelopes and job numberingListing original versus OEM componentsRecording serials, calibers, and datesDocumenting stone or case risk notesReferral forms for external jewelersLesson 5Step-by-step movement disassembly sequence for chronometer movements: removing rotor, bridges, gear train, escapement, balance, barrel, and keyless worksFollow exact disassembly order for chronometer movements to cut risks to pivots, jewels, escapement, keeping track for smooth reassembly and good timing.
Pre-disassembly checks and power let-downRotor and automatic module removalBridge and gear train extraction orderEscapement and balance safe handlingBarrel, keyless, and motion works removalLesson 6Cleaning strategy: ultrasonic cleaning cycles for non-lubricated parts, solvent choices for jewels and gold components, and drying protocolsPlan cleaning with ultrasonic for dry parts, right solvents for jewels and gold, and drying that skips residue, spots, or harm to fine finishes.
Pre-cleaning degreasing and sortingBasket loading and part segregationUltrasonic cycle time and temperatureSolvent selection for jewels and goldDrying methods and contamination checksLesson 7Inspection procedures under loupe and microscope: checking jewel bearing integrity, pivot wear, bushings, and plating corrosionUse loupe and scope for checks on jewel bearings, pivots, bushings, plating, spotting wear, cracks, rust, or old fixes affecting reliability and swing.
Loupe magnification selection and useMicroscope setup and contrast controlJewel seating, chips, and cracksPivot polish, straightness, and shouldersBushing ovality and plating lossLesson 8Controlled environment preparation: bench setup, anti-static mats, soft padding, stone-safe trays, and parts organization (numbered trays)Set up a clean bench for jewelled watches with anti-static, soft padding, stone trays, and numbered organisation to avoid mix-ups or damage.
Lighting, magnification, and bench ergonomicsAnti-static mats and grounded tool placementSoft pads and dust-free surface managementStone-safe trays and lined parts containersNumbered trays and labeling conventionsLesson 9Barrel and mainspring evaluation: mainspring testing for set, measurements for replacement spec, and barrel wall/jewel condition checksSystematically check barrel and mainspring for set, defects, sizes, walls, arbors, jewels for wear or scores.
Safe barrel opening and mainspring removalVisual inspection for set and surface cracksMeasuring length, width, and thicknessChecking barrel wall, floor, and arbor fitJewel and bushing wear around barrelLesson 10Safe removal of hands and dial with protecting the dial and applied markers, securing dial feet and preserving finishingLearn safe hand and dial removal protecting finishes, markers, feet with levers, guards to avoid bends, scratches, flakes.
Hand levers, protectors, and supportsCentering and lifting sequence for handsDial protector placement and selectionDial foot screw and clamp handlingStoring dials to avoid finish damage
