Lesson 1Superfatting and preservatives: what superfat means, typical percent ranges, and handling free oils; rancidity risks and antioxidant use (vitamin E, rosemary extract)Understand what superfat means and how leftover oils make soap milder, affect lather, and extend shelf life. Learn common superfat levels, which oils to hold back, and how antioxidants like vitamin E or rosemary extract prevent rancidity and dark spots in your bars.
Defining superfat and lye discountChoosing which oils to superfat withSuperfat levels for face, body, and shampooRecognizing and preventing DOS and rancidityUsing vitamin E and rosemary extract wiselyLesson 2Selecting oils for target skin types: formulations for sensitive, dry, normal, oily skin and trade-offsLearn to pick oil mixes for sensitive, dry, normal, or oily skin. Compare cleansing power, conditioning, and hardness, and weigh up compromises between gentleness, bubbly lather, lasting power, and cost when crafting recipes for specific needs.
Key fatty acids and their skin feelFormulating for sensitive or reactive skinDesigning bars for dry or mature skinBalancing recipes for normal or combo skinLow-residue bars for oily or acne-prone skinLesson 3Understanding trace and its impact on swirl techniques and batched consistencyGrasp what trace is, spot its stages, and see why it affects texture and designs. Master controlling trace speed for swirls, layers, and embeds, keeping your mix workable and strong.
Visual and textural signs of light traceMedium and thick trace and when to use themFactors that speed or slow traceTiming colorants and fragrance at traceTrace management for swirl techniquesLesson 4Fragrance choices: essential oils vs. fragrance oils, heat and alkali stability, skin-safety considerations and IFRA basicsCompare essential oils and fragrance oils for cold process soap. Check heat and lye stability, discolouring risks, safe amounts, and IFRA rules to make scented bars that are safe and endure.
Essential oil pros, cons, and safety limitsWorking with synthetic fragrance oilsAcceleration, ricing, and discoloration risksReading IFRA documents and usage tablesBlending scents for better longevityLesson 5Basic saponification chemistry: triglycerides, fatty acids, glycerin, and how lye converts oils to soapGet a straightforward view of saponification: how fats and lye react to make soap and glycerin. See why precise lye amounts, pure ingredients, and right mixing order are key for safe, solid bars.
Structure of triglycerides and fatty acidsWhat sodium hydroxide does in solutionThe saponification reaction step by stepRole and benefits of natural glycerinWhy accurate lye calculation is criticalLesson 6Common soap-making oils and butters: properties, typical fatty acid profiles, and functional impacts (hardness, lather, conditioning)Look at popular soap oils and butters, their fatty acid makeups, and effects on hardness, lather, conditioning, and solubility. Blend them for stable, effective, and affordable base recipes.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansingOleic-rich oils for conditioning and glidePalmitic and stearic acids for hardnessCastor oil and stable, creamy latherBuilding balanced base recipes from staplesLesson 7Role of liquid phase: water vs. distilled, herbal/tea infusions, milk, and impact on texture and traceSee how various liquids work in cold process soap, from distilled water to herbal brews, teas, and milk. Understand how liquid choice and amount affect trace speed, texture, colour, scent hold, and curing time.
Why distilled water is the default solventWater discounts and their effect on traceWorking safely with milk and sugar-rich liquidsUsing herbal and tea infusions for color and scentManaging acceleration and overheating from liquidsLesson 8Additives and functional botanicals: clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, botanical powders and their skin effectsFind out how additives alter soap feel and function. Use clays, oats, charcoal, scrubbers, and plant powders for smoothness, calming, detox looks, and gentle exfoliation.
Using clays for slip, color, and oil anchoringColloidal oats and soothing additivesActivated charcoal for color and marketingChoosing gentle versus strong exfoliantsDispersing botanical powders to avoid clumpsLesson 9Common allergens and nut oils: identification, labeling implications, and alternatives for nut-free barsSpot common allergens in soap, especially nut oils and butters. Learn labelling needs, cut cross-contamination risks, and swap in nut-free choices without losing bar quality.
Common allergenic oils and buttersReading supplier documentation and COAsLabeling practices for potential allergensDesigning nut-free or low-risk formulasCommunicating risks to sensitive customersLesson 10Natural colorants and pigments: mica, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric—staining risk, heat sensitivity, and pH stabilitySee how natural colourants act in alkaline soap. Compare micas, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric on amounts, bleeding, staining, heat response, and colour hold over time.
Differences between micas and mineral pigmentsUsing cosmetic clays for color and slipGreen botanicals like spirulina and chlorellaWarm tones with annatto, turmeric, and paprikaPreventing fading, morphing, and staining issuesLesson 11Simple formulation metrics: percentages, parts by weight, batch scaling, and converting to grams for calculator useBuild skill in basic recipe maths. Work with percentages, weight parts, scaling up or down, and ounce-to-gram conversions to use lye calculators right and safely.
Using baker’s percentages for oilsConverting between weight unitsScaling a test batch to production sizeEntering data correctly in lye calculatorsChecking water and lye ratios for safety
