Lesson 1Bolt belay building: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor setups, using slings and locking carabiners, making a clean master pointBuild skills for strong, backed-up bolt belays using fixed hangers, proper bolt-to-bolt links, slings, and locking carabiners, avoiding cross-loading, mess, and bad setup of the master point and rope systems.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor checks and testing: visual checks, load-path thinking, shock-loading concerns, and when to rebuildPractice thorough anchor checks using visual looks, feel tests, and load-path thinking to spot weak points, shock-load risks, and stretch issues, and learn when to fix or rebuild a belay anchor completely.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: rules of backups, equalizing, independent anchors, and minimising stretchMaster key anchor rules for multi-pitch belays, like backups, equalizing, independent parts, and cutting stretch, then use them to check and improve real anchor examples and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Setting up rappels at belays: dedicated rappel rings, pullable vs fixed rigging, single-point rappel vs double-rope rappelsLearn how to set up safe, efficient rappels from belays, including when to use fixed rings, pullable systems, single-strand vs double-rope setups, and avoiding stuck ropes, edge damage, and mix-ups at busy stations.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and backups: attaching belay device to harness, backup methods (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device choices for multi-pitch belaysCheck best ways to place belay devices at the station, including harness vs anchor attachment, backup methods like autoblocks and third hands, and picking right devices for multi-pitch belaying and lowering.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear layout and clipping rules: where to rack active gear, where to store unused gear, handling sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceLearn to organise gear at the belay so active pieces, spare kit, and personal stuff are racked smartly, away from sharp edges and loose rocks, and placed to speed changes while cutting tangles and drops.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs sliding X vs equalette vs fixed loops—strengths, failure ways, and sizingCompare common anchor links—cordelette, sliding X, equalette, fixed loops—looking at strengths, weaknesses, failure ways, and sizes, then learn when each works best on multi-pitch climbs.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: mixing bolts and removable pro, choices when rock is cracked or has loose blocksLearn to build solid anchors on mixed ground with bolts and removable pro, including plans for cracked or blocky rock, picking strongest spots, and deciding when to shift or ditch a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance setup at belay: positioning leader, second, and third; space on small ledges; fixed-line vs hanging belaysLearn to arrange climbers and ropes at the belay, where leader, second, and third stand or hang, manage space on small ledges, and when to use fixed lines or full hanging belays for safety and speed.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay building: selecting, placing, orienting removable pro for anchor points, building multi-point anchor with cams and nutsLearn to pick, place, and check removable pro for belay anchors, then combine pieces into a backed-up, well-set multi-point anchor using cams, nuts, and rock features on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull