Lesson 1Antimicrobials and microbiome-friendly actives: benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid, topical antimicrobials and resistance considerationsCovers topical antimicrobials and microbiome-aware actives like benzoyl peroxide and azelaic acid. Reviews actions, resistance risks, microbiome changes, and ways to treat without upsetting balance.
Benzoyl peroxide: bactericidal action and irritationAzelaic acid: antimicrobial and anti-inflammatoryTopical antibiotics and resistance mitigationMicrobiome shifts in acne and dermatitisNon-antibiotic antimicrobial strategiesCombining antimicrobials with barrier supportLesson 2Surfactants and cleansers: non-foaming vs foaming, pH and barrier impactAnalyses surfactant types and cleanser designs, comparing foaming and non-foaming. Covers pH, lipid removal, barrier effects, and picking cleansers for acne, rosacea, eczema, and after treatments.
Anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic surfactant classesFoaming vs non-foaming systems and skin feelCleanser pH, acid mantle, and TEWL changesSyndets vs true soaps in dermocosmeticsCleanser selection for acne and oily skinCleansers for atopic, rosacea, and aged skinLesson 3Sunscreen filters: chemical vs mineral filters, UVA/UVB coverage, photostability, and vehicle effectsExamines chemical and mineral sunscreen filters, UVA/UVB protection, and stability to light. Discusses bases, film formation, feel, and interactions with other actives in routines.
UVA vs UVB: action spectra and skin outcomesOrganic filters: mechanisms and safety profileMineral filters: particle size and whiteningPhotostability, filter pairing, and boostersVehicle types, film formation, and adherenceCombining sunscreens with irritant-prone activesLesson 4Anti-inflammatory and barrier-repair agents: niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, fatty acidsExplores anti-inflammatory and repair ingredients like niacinamide, panthenol, ceramides, cholesterol, and fatty acids. Links their actions to results in acne, rosacea, eczema, and irritations.
Niacinamide: mechanisms, benefits, and limitsPanthenol and soothing of acute irritationCeramide subclasses and lamellar organizationCholesterol and fatty acids in barrier balanceOptimal ceramide:cholesterol:fatty acid ratiosBarrier repair in atopic and irritant dermatitisLesson 5Preservatives, fragrance, and common sensitizers: parabens, formaldehyde releasers, essential oilsReviews preservatives, scents, and known sensitisers. Explains preservation methods, allergy paths, patch test value, and choosing safer options for sensitive or damaged skin.
Mechanisms of cosmetic preservation and stabilityParabens: safety data, myths, and regulatory statusFormaldehyde releasers and contact allergy riskFragrance mixes, essential oils, and sensitizationLabel reading for fragrance-free and hypoallergenicPatch testing relevance and counseling patientsLesson 6Antioxidants and supportive actives: vitamin C (ascorbic acid), tocopherol, and niacinamide interactionsReviews main antioxidants like vitamin C, vitamin E, and niacinamide. Covers stability, good mixes, clashes, and protection from oxidative damage.
Oxidative stress pathways in skin agingAscorbic acid forms, pH, and stabilizationTocopherol and lipid phase antioxidant synergyVitamin C and E co-formulation strategiesNiacinamide interactions with acidic formulasAntioxidants in photoprotection regimensLesson 7Retinoids and retinaldehyde: efficacy, irritation management, and photosensitivityDetails topical retinoids like retinol, retinaldehyde, and stronger versions. Reviews actions, anti-ageing and acne proof, irritation causes, light sensitivity, and building tolerance.
Retinoid family overview and skin pharmacologyEvidence for acne, photoaging, and dyschromiaRetinaldehyde vs retinol: potency and tolerabilityIrritation mechanisms and barrier impairmentRetinization protocols and buffering strategiesPhotosensitivity, photoprotection, and timingLesson 8Humectants and hydrators: hyaluronic acid, glycerin, propanediol — molecular weight considerationsExplores humectants like hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and propanediol. Explains size, penetration, stickiness, and pairing with sealants to avoid dehydration.
Mechanisms of humectancy and water bindingHyaluronic acid molecular weights and effectsGlycerin: efficacy, safety, and sensory profilePropanediol and multifunctional solvent rolesPairing humectants with occlusives and emollientsHydrator choices for oily vs very dry skinLesson 9Keratolytics and exfoliants: salicylic acid, glycolic acid, lactic acid — concentration, pH, and irritation riskAnalyses exfoliants like salicylic, glycolic, and lactic acids. Covers strength, pH, depth, and irritation risks for safe use in acne, sun damage, pigmentation, and sensitive skin.
Beta-hydroxy vs alpha-hydroxy acid mechanismsRole of pH and concentration in acid potencySalicylic acid in acne and seborrheic skinGlycolic acid for photoaging and dyschromiaLactic acid for dry and sensitive-prone skinLayering acids with retinoids and vitamin C
