Lesson 1Preservatives, fragrances, and potential irritants: parabens, isothiazolinones, fragrance allergens — relevance for sensitive skinThis lesson checks preservatives, scents, and irritants like parabens, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, fragrance allergens. It stresses patch tests, limits, and advice for sensitive or eczema-prone Kenyan skin.
Common preservative classes and safety dataIsothiazolinones and formaldehyde releasersFragrance allergens and labeling rulesFormulating for sensitive and atopic skinPatch testing and counseling on avoidanceLesson 2Retinoids and retinoid alternatives: tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinaldehyde — mechanism, efficacy, irritation managementThis lesson covers retinoids like tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinaldehyde: how they bind receptors, work on acne and sun-aging, start slow, buffer, and handle irritation or initial breakouts.
Retinoid classes and receptor selectivityAcne vs photoaging: evidence and regimensRetinol and retinaldehyde: conversion stepsInitiation, titration, and buffering methodsManaging irritation, purging, and adherenceLesson 3Excipients and vehicles affecting delivery: pH, liposomes, esters, gels, creams, oil-in-water vs water-in-oil impact on actives and tolerabilityThis lesson shows how bases like gels, creams, pH, liposomes, esters affect delivery and feel. It compares oil-in-water vs water-in-oil for penetration in varied Kenyan weather.
pH impact on ionization and irritationOil-in-water vs water-in-oil: key differencesLiposomes and encapsulation for activesRole of esters and solvents in penetrationSelecting vehicles for skin type and diseaseLesson 4Lightening pathway modulators: hydroquinone, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid — mechanisms and cautionsThis lesson details hydroquinone, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid for pigment control. Covers dosing, duration, rebound risks, safety for different Kenyan skin tones.
Hydroquinone: mechanism and cycling regimensAzelaic acid for pigment and acne overlapTranexamic acid: topical and oral usePost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation strategiesSafety in darker phototypes and pregnancyLesson 5Photoprotection actives and filters: UVA/UVB chemical filters, mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), photostability, broad-spectrum requirementsThis lesson reviews chemical and mineral UV filters like zinc oxide, titanium dioxide. Explains UVA/UVB protection, SPF/PPD, stability, combos, labels for full sun defence in Kenya.
UVA vs UVB: clinical and labeling relevanceOrganic filters: profiles and combinationsMineral filters: particle size and aestheticsPhotostability and use of stabilizing systemsBroad-spectrum, SPF, and PPD requirementsLesson 6Sunscreen adjuncts and enhancers: photostabilizers, antioxidants, intended claimsThis lesson focuses on sunscreen boosters like stabilisers, antioxidants. Covers anti-aging proof, claims, texture effects for better daily use in bright Kenyan sun.
Photostabilizers for vulnerable UV filtersAntioxidants in sunscreens: added benefitsBlue light and infrared protection claimsImpact on cosmetic elegance and adherenceEvaluating evidence behind marketing claimsLesson 7Anti-inflammatory and barrier-supporting actives: ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal, allantoinThis lesson explains barrier aids like ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, oatmeal, allantoin. Covers repair ratios, soothing, use in eczema or after treatments.
Ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid ratiosPanthenol and allantoin: soothing mechanismsColloidal oatmeal: anti-itch and barrier effectsBarrier repair in eczema and irritant dermatitisPost-procedure recovery and product layeringLesson 8Antioxidants and brightening agents: vitamin C (ascorbic acid forms), niacinamide, alpha arbutin, kojic acid — stability, interactions, clinical indicationsThis lesson details vitamin C types, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, kojic acid. Discusses stability, pH, mixing, uses for uneven tone in Kenyan skin.
Ascorbic acid vs derivatives and pH needsNiacinamide: barrier, tone, and tolerabilityAlpha arbutin and kojic acid: pigment targetsFormulation and packaging for antioxidant stabilityCombining brighteners with retinoids and acidsLesson 9Keratolytics and comedolytics: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid — concentrations, vehicles, side effectsThis lesson reviews salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid for unclogging. Covers strengths, bases, bleaching, irritation, pairing with retinoids.
Salicylic acid: pH, strength, and vehiclesBenzoyl peroxide: efficacy and bleaching riskAzelaic acid: dual comedolytic and brighteningCombining with retinoids and topical antibioticsIrritation, dryness, and mitigation tacticsLesson 10Humectants and emollients: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea — function and formulation considerationsThis lesson explores glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea for moisture. Covers binding, barrier help, levels, pairing for dry, sensitive, aging skin.
Glycerin: mechanism, levels, and skin feelHyaluronic acid weights and crosslinkingUrea concentrations and indicationsCombining humectants, emollients, occlusivesFormulation tips for dry and sensitive skin