Lesson 1Tension systems: upper and bobbin tension diagnosis and adjustment proceduresGain confidence adjusting thread tensions for consistent stitches on denim and other fabrics. Learn how upper and bobbin tensions interact, how to diagnose imbalance from seam appearance, and how to perform controlled adjustments and tests without overcorrecting in a busy workshop.
Reading stitch balance on top and undersideTesting and setting bobbin case tension rangeAdjusting upper tension and check spring actionEffects of thread size and fabric on tensionRecording baseline settings for repeatabilityLesson 2Bearing, shaft, and lubrication-related overheating: detection and corrective maintenanceLearn how bearing and shaft problems create heat, how poor lubrication accelerates wear, and how to detect overheating early using touch, smell, and tools, then apply safe corrective maintenance to restore smooth, cool operation for long production runs.
Typical overheating symptoms and risk indicatorsChecking bearings and shafts for play and scoringAssessing oil level, grade, and delivery pathsUsing temperature, smell, and noise for diagnosisCorrective steps and post-repair verificationLesson 3Needle types, sizes, and materials for medium-weight denim; selecting correct needle and recognizing needle wearFocus on needle selection for medium-weight denim common in jeans production. Compare needle systems, sizes, and materials, match them to thread and fabric, and learn to recognize wear, damage, and subtle defects that degrade stitch quality and increase breakage.
Needle systems used on industrial lockstitch unitsChoosing size and point for denim and threadCoatings and materials for heat and wear controlVisual and tactile signs of needle wear or damageReplacement intervals and documentation habitsLesson 4Thread path and common threading errors that cause breakageTrace the complete thread path and learn where errors occur. Identify misrouting, missed guides, and tension bypasses that cause breakage, skipped stitches, and fraying, then apply a repeatable threading and verification routine for quick fixes.
Mapping the full upper thread pathCommon misrouting points and missed guidesBobbin winding and insertion best practicesThread quality issues that mimic path faultsStandardized threading and double-check stepsLesson 5Stitch formation, stitch length mechanism, and causes of irregular stitch lengthUnderstand how a lockstitch is formed and what controls stitch length. Study feed mechanisms, stitch regulators, and common causes of irregular length so you can restore even, specified stitches on denim and similar materials used in local factories.
Sequence of lockstitch formation step by stepFeed dog motion and stitch length regulatorEffects of presser foot pressure on feedingSlippage, drag, and operator handling issuesInspection and adjustment of feed componentsLesson 6Anatomy of industrial lockstitch machines: needle bar, shuttle/hook, bobbin case, feed dogs, presser foot, tension assembliesStudy the main assemblies of an industrial lockstitch machine and how they interact to form a stitch. Identify the needle bar, hook, bobbin case, feed dogs, presser foot, and tension units so you can trace faults to specific components quickly.
Needle bar, clamp, and driving mechanismsShuttle or rotary hook and bobbin case layoutFeed dog, throat plate, and presser foot rolesUpper tension, check spring, and guidesDrive train, handwheel, and belt connectionsLesson 7Hook and timing faults: symptoms, measurement, and simple timing checksIdentify symptoms of hook and timing faults, such as skipped stitches and thread breaks. Learn basic timing measurements, how to check needle and hook relationships, and when simple adjustments are safe for field technicians in garment workshops.
Visual symptoms of timing and hook problemsMeasuring needle height at hook intersectionChecking hook point clearance and positionSimple timing corrections within safe limitsWhen to escalate to advanced timing serviceLesson 8Tools and consumables checklist for on-site diagnostics and repairs (feel gauges, screwdrivers, oil, replacement needles)Prepare for on-site service with a practical toolkit suited to Kenyan workshops. Build a checklist of hand tools, gauges, lubricants, cleaning supplies, and consumables such as needles and screws so most diagnostic and repair tasks can be completed in one visit.
Essential screwdrivers, wrenches, and pliersFeeler gauges, rulers, and timing scalesOils, greases, and cleaning materialsAssorted needles, screws, and small hardwareOrganizing and transporting a mobile tool kitLesson 9Post-repair testing: test-seam procedures, progressive speed testing, stitch quality acceptance criteriaVerify repair quality using controlled sewing tests on local fabrics. Learn to set up test materials, run low to high speed seams, evaluate stitch balance and seam appearance, and apply clear acceptance criteria before returning the machine to production.
Preparing test fabric, thread, and needle setupLow-speed functional checks and observationsProgressive speed testing and heat monitoringEvaluating stitch balance and seam appearanceDefining pass, rework, and documentation rulesLesson 10Step-by-step visual inspection checklist and manual diagnostic tests (handwheel rotation, needle drop, bobbin inspection)Use a structured visual inspection and manual test routine before powering the machine. Check external condition, guards, wiring, and moving parts, then rotate the handwheel, test needle drop, and inspect bobbin and hook areas safely in a factory setting.
Exterior, guards, and wiring visual checklistChecking belts, pulleys, and moving clearancesHandwheel rotation feel and noise assessmentNeedle drop alignment and clearance checksBobbin, case, and hook area inspection stepsLesson 11Common corrective actions: re-threading, needle replacement, tension adjustments, hook servicing, lubrication, and part replacementPractice the most common corrective actions used in field repairs across Kenyan factories. Learn systematic re-threading, safe needle changes, tension tuning, hook cleaning and polishing, lubrication routines, and when worn parts must be replaced instead of adjusted.
Standardized re-threading and path verificationSafe needle removal, fitting, and alignmentFine-tuning upper and bobbin thread tensionsHook cleaning, deburring, and lubrication stepsCriteria for replacing worn or damaged partsLesson 12Thread types and properties for denim: tensile strength, twist, lubricants, appropriate thread sizeExplore thread types suited to denim, including polyester, cotton, and corespun used locally. Compare tensile strength, twist, finishes, and sizes, and learn how thread choice affects needle heat, tension settings, seam durability, and appearance.
Common thread fibers for denim applicationsThread size selection for seams and topstitchingTwist direction, ply count, and seam behaviorLubricants and finishes that reduce frictionMatching thread, needle, and tension settingsLesson 13Heat and needle bending causes: friction, incorrect needle, timing issues, and high-speed effectsUnderstand why needles heat and bend under load, including friction, wrong needle choice, timing errors, and overspeed common in high-volume production. Learn to trace symptoms to root causes and apply targeted adjustments that prevent repeat failures.
Friction sources at needle, fabric, and threadEffects of incorrect needle size and point typeTiming errors that overload or deflect the needleHigh-speed operation and inadequate coolingPreventive adjustments and operator guidanceLesson 14Safety procedures and pre-inspection checks specific to lockstitch machines (lockout/tagout, electrical isolation, handwheel tests)Develop safe habits before touching a lockstitch machine in busy factories. Apply lockout and tagout, verify electrical isolation, and use controlled handwheel tests so inspections and adjustments are performed without risk of shock, entanglement, or injury.
Lockout and tagout steps for sewing stationsVerifying power off and residual energy releaseGuarding, PPE, and safe body positioningSafe handwheel rotation and needle clearance testsDocumenting hazards and communicating with operators
