Lesson 1Soothing and anti-inflammatory actives: panthenol, niacinamide, bisabolol for scalp tolerance and sensory benefitsHere we cover calming and anti-inflammatory ingredients that ease scalp in damaged hair routines. You’ll study panthenol, niacinamide, bisabolol, and how they help skin barrier, reduce redness, itch, and improve feel.
Scalp barrier and inflammation basicsPanthenol for hydration and soothingNiacinamide for barrier and rednessBisabolol and botanical anti-irritantsSensory testing and consumer perceptionFormulation limits and compatibilityLesson 2Lipids, ceramides and fatty alcohols: replenishing the lipid mantle, repairing cuticle gaps, improving barrier functionThis part looks at lipids, ceramides, and fatty alcohols that rebuild the hair’s oily layer. You’ll learn how they fill cuticle gaps, cut porosity, smooth hair, and build resistance to stress.
Hair lipid layer composition overviewCeramides and cuticle gap fillingCholesterol and 18-MEA restorationFatty alcohols as structuring emollientsPorosity reduction and strength gainsSynergy with proteins and conditionersLesson 3Proteins and peptides: hydrolyzed proteins, amino acids, keratin-derived peptides and mechanism of temporary repairThis part focuses on proteins, peptides, and amino acids for quick fixes. You’ll learn how size, charge, and breakdown affect entry, coating, strength, and balancing stiffness with softness.
Protein damage markers in hair fibersHydrolyzed proteins and molecular weightKeratin-derived peptides and targetingFree amino acids and moisturizationFilm formation, strength, and brittlenessAllergy, labeling, and vegan alternativesLesson 4Oils and esters: vegetable vs synthetic esters, penetration vs surface lubricationThis part explores oils and esters that smooth, shield, and sometimes soak into hair. You’ll compare natural oils and man-made esters, fatty profiles, soak depth, and effects on frizz, shine, and breaks.
Cuticle lubrication and friction reductionPenetrating versus surface oilsVegetable oils and fatty acid profilesSynthetic esters and sensorial tuningOcclusion, gloss, and frizz controlRancidity, oxidation, and product stabilityLesson 5Surfactants and mild cleansing systems: sulfate vs sulfate-free (anionic, amphoteric, nonionic) and impact on damaged hairThis part checks cleansing agents for damaged hair with least harm. You’ll compare sulfates and non-sulfate mixes, roles of anionic, amphoteric, nonionic types, and build gentler systems.
Surfactant types and micelle formationSulfate surfactants and damage potentialAmphoteric and nonionic mildness boostersCoacervates and conditioning during washFoam quality versus gentleness balanceScalp tolerance and rinse-off optimizationLesson 6Silicones and film-formers: volatile vs non-volatile silicones, PVP/VA, dimethicone — shine, smoothness, and protectionThis part covers silicones and coatings that smooth and protect hair. You’ll compare quick-dry and lasting silicones, PVP/VA and acrylics, and how films boost shine, cut frizz, protect from heat, and avoid build-up.
Volatile versus non-volatile siliconesDimethicone grades and viscosity selectionAmino-functional silicones and depositionPVP/VA and acrylic film-former propertiesHeat, UV, and mechanical protection rolesManaging buildup and silicone-free claimsLesson 7Humectants and moisturizers: glycerin, propylene glycol, hyaluronic acid — water retention vs hygral fatigueHere we look at humectants and moisturisers that control hair moisture. You’ll compare glycerin, glycols, hyaluronic acid, water hold vs moisture tiredness, and how weather and porosity guide amounts.
Water in hair fiber structureGlycerin and classic polyol humectantsPropylene glycol and related glycolsHyaluronic acid weight and film behaviorHygral fatigue and swelling controlClimate, porosity, and usage guidelinesLesson 8Preservatives, chelators, pH adjusters and antioxidants: ensuring stability and preventing further oxidative damageThis part details helper ingredients that guard products and hair from breakdown. You’ll learn how preservatives, chelators, pH balancers, and antioxidants keep safety, stability, and cut oxidation.
Microbial risks in damaged-hair productsPreservative systems and regulatory limitsChelators, hard water, and metal-catalyzed damagepH adjusters and cuticle integrityAntioxidants against oxidative stressStability testing and packaging choicesLesson 9Cationic conditioners and polymers: quaternized cellulose, polyquaterniums — adsorption, deposition, and slipHere we explore positive-charged conditioners and polymers that stick to damaged hair. You’ll study charge strength, sticking power, build-up, and effects on combing, slip, volume, and lasting feel.
Cationic charge and damaged hair bindingQuaternized cellulose structure and functionKey polyquaterniums and performance profilesAdsorption, deposition, and rinse-off behaviorSlip, combability, and sensorial assessmentBuildup control and clarifying strategiesLesson 10Bond-rebuilding chemistries: bis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate, polyfunctional crosslinkers and how they restore disulfide/peptide interactionsThis part explains bond-fixing chemicals targeting broken links. You’ll learn key molecules, reactions, real repair limits, and mixing without upsetting other ingredients.
Hair damage and disulfide bond breakageBis-aminopropyl diglycol dimaleate mechanismPolyfunctional crosslinkers and network densityPeptide backbone interactions and limitsFormulation compatibility and stabilitySafety, irritation, and marketing claims
