Lesson 1Preservatives, fragrances, and potential irritants: parabens, isothiazolinones, fragrance allergens — relevance for sensitive skinLooks at preservatives, scents, and possible irritants. Covers parabens, isothiazolinones, formaldehyde releasers, and scent allergens, stressing patch tests, rules, and advice for sensitive or eczema-prone skin.
Common preservative classes and safety dataIsothiazolinones and formaldehyde releasersFragrance allergens and labeling rulesFormulating for sensitive and atopic skinPatch testing and counseling on avoidanceLesson 2Retinoids and retinoid alternatives: tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, retinaldehyde — mechanism, efficacy, irritation managementLooks into skin retinoids and options like tretinoin, adapalene, retinol, and retinaldehyde. Discusses how they bind to receptors, proof in acne and sun-aging, starting slow, buffering, and handling irritation and initial breakouts.
Retinoid classes and receptor selectivityAcne vs photoaging: evidence and regimensRetinol and retinaldehyde: conversion stepsInitiation, titration, and buffering methodsManaging irritation, purging, and adherenceLesson 3Excipients and vehicles affecting delivery: pH, liposomes, esters, gels, creams, oil-in-water vs water-in-oil impact on actives and tolerabilityStudies how added parts and bases affect delivery, effectiveness, and skin feel. Compares gels, creams, lotions, ointments, pH effects, liposomes, esters, and how oil-in-water vs water-in-oil changes absorption.
pH impact on ionization and irritationOil-in-water vs water-in-oil: key differencesLiposomes and encapsulation for activesRole of esters and solvents in penetrationSelecting vehicles for skin type and diseaseLesson 4Lightening pathway modulators: hydroquinone, azelaic acid, tranexamic acid — mechanisms and cautionsCovers hydroquinone, azelaic acid, and tranexamic acid for controlling pigment and blood vessel parts. Details how they work, doses, treatment length, rebound risks, and safety for various skin tones.
Hydroquinone: mechanism and cycling regimensAzelaic acid for pigment and acne overlapTranexamic acid: topical and oral usePost-inflammatory hyperpigmentation strategiesSafety in darker phototypes and pregnancyLesson 5Photoprotection actives and filters: UVA/UVB chemical filters, mineral filters (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide), photostability, broad-spectrum requirementsReviews chemical and mineral UV blockers like zinc oxide and titanium dioxide. Explains UVA/UVB protection, SPF and PPD ideas, stability to light, filter mixes, and rules for broad-spectrum labels.
UVA vs UVB: clinical and labeling relevanceOrganic filters: profiles and combinationsMineral filters: particle size and aestheticsPhotostability and use of stabilizing systemsBroad-spectrum, SPF, and PPD requirementsLesson 6Sunscreen adjuncts and enhancers: photostabilizers, antioxidants, intended claimsFocuses on extras in sunscreens that boost protection, like light stabilizers and antioxidants. Looks at how they work, proof against sun-aging, marketing claims, and how they affect feel and sticking to use.
Photostabilizers for vulnerable UV filtersAntioxidants in sunscreens: added benefitsBlue light and infrared protection claimsImpact on cosmetic elegance and adherenceEvaluating evidence behind marketing claimsLesson 7Anti-inflammatory and barrier-supporting actives: ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, colloidal oatmeal, allantoinDetails skin barrier helpers and calmers like ceramides, fatty acids, cholesterol, panthenol, oatmeal powder, and allantoin. Explains repair ratios, anti-inflammatory effects, and use in skin irritation and after treatments.
Ceramide, cholesterol, fatty acid ratiosPanthenol and allantoin: soothing mechanismsColloidal oatmeal: anti-itch and barrier effectsBarrier repair in eczema and irritant dermatitisPost-procedure recovery and product layeringLesson 8Antioxidants and brightening agents: vitamin C (ascorbic acid forms), niacinamide, alpha arbutin, kojic acid — stability, interactions, clinical indicationsDetails vitamin C types, niacinamide, alpha arbutin, and kojic acid. Discusses anti-oxidant and brightening ways, stability issues, pH fits, mixing with other actives, and proof for uneven skin tone.
Ascorbic acid vs derivatives and pH needsNiacinamide: barrier, tone, and tolerabilityAlpha arbutin and kojic acid: pigment targetsFormulation and packaging for antioxidant stabilityCombining brighteners with retinoids and acidsLesson 9Keratolytics and comedolytics: salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, azelaic acid — concentrations, vehicles, side effectsReviews skin softeners and pore clearers like salicylic acid, benzoyl peroxide, and azelaic acid. Covers how they work, best strengths, base choices, bleaching risk, irritation, and mixing with retinoids or antibiotics.
Salicylic acid: pH, strength, and vehiclesBenzoyl peroxide: efficacy and bleaching riskAzelaic acid: dual comedolytic and brighteningCombining with retinoids and topical antibioticsIrritation, dryness, and mitigation tacticsLesson 10Humectants and emollients: glycerin, hyaluronic acid, urea — function and formulation considerationsLooks at water holders and softeners like glycerin, hyaluronic acid, and urea. Covers water binding, barrier help, best levels, pairing with sealers, and choices for dry, sensitive, or aging skin.
Glycerin: mechanism, levels, and skin feelHyaluronic acid weights and crosslinkingUrea concentrations and indicationsCombining humectants, emollients, occlusivesFormulation tips for dry and sensitive skin
