Lesson 1Active dosing plan: selecting an effective yet tolerable percentage range and rationaleThis part teaches setting active amounts that work but don't irritate. You'll read studies, live data, rules, set starting ranges, and plan tweaks while watching total exposure in routines.
Reading literature and supplier dataMinimum effective vs plateau dosesSafety margins and irritation thresholdsLayering with other products in a routinePilot batches and consumer feedback loopsLesson 2Solvents and co-solvents selection: water, glycols, propanediol, oils — impact on solubility and stabilityThis part covers picking solvents like water, glycols, propanediol, oils. You'll see how they affect solubility, stability, feel, and delivery for water-loving and oil-loving actives.
Water quality and microbiological controlUsing glycols to improve solubilityPropanediol as humectant co-solventOil phase choice for lipophilic activesSolvent impact on stability and feelLesson 3Emollients and skin-feel modifiers: lightweight esters, caprylic/capric triglycerides, squalane — balancing aesthetics and skin toleranceThis part looks at emollients and feel changers like esters, caprylic/capric triglycerides, squalane. You'll tune spread, richness, afterfeel, while helping skin barrier and active tolerance.
Lightweight esters for fast absorptionCaprylic/capric triglycerides as base emollientSqualane for barrier support and slipSilicone vs non-silicone feel strategiesComedogenicity and skin type matchingLesson 4Antioxidants and stabilizers to protect actives: vitamin E (tocopherol), ferulic acid, chelators (EDTA), and rationaleThis part covers antioxidants and stabilisers protecting actives from breakdown. You'll study vitamin E, ferulic acid, chelators like EDTA, and build systems for mix type and packaging.
Oxidation pathways in cosmetic formulasVitamin E (tocopherol) in oil phasesFerulic acid to support vitamin C systemsChelators such as EDTA and alternativesPackaging and oxygen exposure controlLesson 5Humectants and moisturizers: role of glycerin, propanediol, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol and selection guidanceThis part explores humectants like glycerin, propanediol, sodium hyaluronate, butylene glycol. You'll mix them to balance moisture, stickiness, sink-in, and active fit.
Glycerin levels and tack controlPropanediol as mild humectant solventSodium hyaluronate grades and weightsButylene glycol for slip and solvencyHumectant blends for different climatesLesson 6Designing the serum type: water-based serum, emulsion serum, anhydrous serum — selection matrix based on chosen activeThis part guides serum type choice by active. You'll compare water, emulsion, dry serums using a chart weighing solubility, stability, feel goals, packaging, customer wants.
Water-based serums for hydrophilic activesEmulsion serums for mixed solubility needsAnhydrous serums for unstable activesDecision matrix by active and skin typePackaging choices for each serum typeLesson 7Thickeners and texture agents: carbomers, xanthan gum, polyacrylate rheology modifiers and considerations for clarity vs opacityThis part shows how thickeners shape texture, spread, suspension. You'll compare carbomers, xanthan gum, polyacrylates, tuning clear or cloudy looks and feel for formats.
Carbomer types and neutralization needsXanthan gum for natural, elastic texturesPolyacrylate rheology modifiers in gelsBalancing clarity, opacity, and viscosityPreventing syneresis and phase separationLesson 8pH adjusters and buffers: selection and how to control formula pH to protect actives and skin compatibilityThis part explains picking pH adjusters and buffers for actives and skin. You'll choose acids, bases, buffers, measure, tweak pH, stop changes over time and use.
Target pH ranges for key activesCommon acids and bases for adjustmentBuffer systems and ionic strengthpH drift causes and preventionpH measurement and calibration basicsLesson 9Preservative systems and strategies for low-irritancy formulas: preservative selection, boosting with chelators, and preservative compatibilityThis part covers preservative design for gentle mixes. You'll compare preservatives, boost with chelators, humectants, check fit with pH, surfactants, natural claims, safety.
Regulatory limits and global preservative listsOrganic acids and pH-dependent systemsPreservative boosting with chelatorsSynergy with humectants and glycolsChallenge testing and risk assessmentLesson 10Penetration enhancers and delivery systems: role of solvents, short-chain alcohols, propylene glycol, esters, and encapsulation approaches (liposomes, solid lipid nanoparticles)This part explains penetration helpers and delivery, covering solvents, short alcohols, glycols, esters, encapsulation to boost solubility, stability, targeting, less irritation.
Role of solvent polarity in skin permeationShort-chain alcohols: efficacy vs irritationUse of glycols and propylene glycolEster-based penetration enhancersLiposomes and solid lipid nanoparticles
