Lesson 1Bolt belay building: using fixed hangers, bolt-to-bolt anchor setups, using slings and locking carabiners, making a clean master pointBuild skills for strong, extra-safe bolt belays using fixed hangers, good bolt-to-bolt links, slings, and locking carabiners, avoiding cross-loading, mess, and bad master point or rope setup.
Evaluating bolt quality and spacingBolt-to-bolt connection strategiesUsing slings and lockers efficientlyCreating a clean, central master pointAvoiding cross-loading and tri-axial loadsLesson 2Anchor checks and testing: visual looks, load-path thinking, shock-loading issues, and when to rebuildPractice full anchor checks using looks, feels, and load-path thinking to spot weak spots, shock-load risks, and stretch issues, and learn when to fix or rebuild a belay anchor.
Step-by-step visual anchor checklistTracing and simplifying load pathsIdentifying shock-loading scenariosTesting placements without overloadingDeciding when to rebuild from scratchLesson 3Anchors: rules of extra pieces, equalizing, independent anchors, and cutting stretchMaster main anchor rules for multi-pitch belays, like extra pieces, equalizing, independent parts, and less stretch, then use them to check and improve real anchors and common setups.
Redundancy and avoiding single pointsEqualization vs. load sharing in practiceIndependent anchor legs and componentsMinimizing extension and shock loadsEvaluating example anchors in the fieldLesson 4Setting up rappels at belays: dedicated rappel rings, pullable vs fixed rigging, single-point rappel vs double-rope rappelsLearn to set up safe, good rappels from belays, including fixed rings, pullable systems, single vs double-rope, and avoiding stuck ropes, edge rub, and mix-ups at busy spots.
Choosing rappel rings and hardwareSingle-strand vs. double-rope decisionsRetrievable anchor rigging methodsRope path, edge and snag managementPre-rappel checks and communicationLesson 5Belay device placement and backups: tying belay device to harness, backup ways (autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand) and device picks for multi-pitch belaysCheck best ways to place belay devices at the station, harness vs anchor tie-in, backups like autoblock, mule hitch, third-hand, and picking devices for multi-pitch belays and lowers.
Harness vs. anchor belay attachmentUsing guide-mode devices at belaysAutoblock and third-hand backupsMule hitch for hands-free lockingDevice selection for multi-pitch useLesson 6Gear sorting and clipping rules: where to rack active gear, where to store unused gear, handling sharp edges and loose blocks near stanceLearn to sort gear at belay so active pieces, spares, and personal stuff are racked smart, away from sharp edges and loose rocks, quick to grab, less tangles and drops.
Racking active gear for the next leadParking unused gear and personal itemsManaging sharp edges and loose rockPreventing tangles in ropes and slingsSystems for fast changeovers at stanceLesson 7Connections and master point: cordelette vs sliding X vs equalette vs fixed loops—good points, fail ways, and sizingCompare anchor ties—cordelette, sliding X, equalette, fixed loops—looking at good points, weaknesses, fails, and sizes, then know when each fits multi-pitch.
Static cordelette master point setupSliding X: pros, cons, and backupsEqualette for limited extension controlFixed loops and pre-rigged systemsChoosing cord length and sling sizesLesson 8Anchors on mixed ground: mixing bolts and removable pro, choices when rock is cracked or has loose blocksLearn to build solid anchors on mixed ground with bolts and removable pro, plans for cracked or blocky rock, pick strongest spots, decide when to move or skip a stance.
Combining bolts with trad placementsAssessing fractured and hollow rockPrioritizing strongest available featuresExtending to reach better anchor optionsWhen to relocate or abandon a stanceLesson 9Stance sorting at belay: placing leader, second, and third; space on small ledges; fixed-line vs hanging belaysLearn to arrange climbers and ropes at belay, where leader, second, third stand or hang, handle small ledges, use fixed lines or hanging belays for safety and speed.
Positioning leader, second, and thirdManaging ropes on small or sloping ledgesBuilding and using fixed hand linesTechniques for full hanging belaysCommunication and movement at stanceLesson 10Trad belay building: picking, placing, pointing removable pro for anchors, building multi-point anchor with cams and nutsLearn to pick, place, and check removable pro for belay anchors, then make multi-point anchors with cams, nuts, and rock features on real multi-pitch routes.
Selecting solid rock and crack featuresPlacing and testing cams for anchorsNut and stopper placement for belaysBuilding three-piece and four-piece anchorsManaging extension and direction of pull
