Lesson 1Recommended stitches, machines, and handwork for wool jacket repairs (basting, stay-stitching, slipstitch)Find the right stitches, machines, and hand methods for fixing wool jackets. Learn when to use basting, stay-stitching, slipstitch, and special feet so changes stay strong, flexible, and almost unseen from outside.
Choosing needle size, thread, and presser feetTemporary basting for fittings and testingStay-stitching to control curves and edgesSlipstitching hems, facings, and liningsReinforcing stress points without bulkLesson 2Standard men’s jacket ease, back fit, sleeve length, and shoulder balanceKnow the usual ease and balance for men's wool jackets to spot good or bad fit fast. Learn key measurements for chest, back, sleeves, and shoulders, and how style and customer liking affect ease choices.
Reference ease for chest, waist, and hipsAssessing back drape and shoulder blade roomChecking sleeve length with movement testsEvaluating shoulder balance and neck pointAdapting ease for classic vs slim silhouettesLesson 3Customer communication: explaining fit limits, alteration costs, and care instructions for wool garmentsGain confidence talking realistic fit aims, prices, and care for changed wool jackets. Learn words to explain limits, set expectations right, and give aftercare tips that keep the garment safe and your name good.
Explaining what alterations can and cannot fixDiscussing cost versus value of complex workObtaining written approval for major changesAdvising on pressing and home care for woolHandling complaints and adjustment requestsLesson 4Sleeve shortening techniques: removing hem vs. taking from sleeve head vs. adjusting cuffCompare ways to shorten wool jacket sleeves from hem, sleeve head, or cuff. Learn how each way affects vent parts, sleeve angle, and lining length, and how to keep original design when you can.
Assessing how much sleeve length to removeShortening from hem with working buttonholesShortening from sleeve head to keep ventsAdjusting sleeve pitch when reseating sleevesBalancing sleeve and lining lengths evenlyLesson 5Methods to let out or reshape the back: center back, side seams, and back panelsStudy ways to reshape wool jacket back using center back seam, side seams, and panel seams. Learn how each affects balance, vent action, and arm move, and how to blend changes into the full shape.
Reading drag lines across the back areaChoosing between center back and side seamsAdjusting vents when changing back widthShaping princess or panel seams in woolBlending new back shape into side seamsLesson 6Seam allowance limits, pattern distortion risks, and when to recommend a new jacketLearn how small seam allowances and fabric grain affect wool jackets, when reshaping is okay, and when risks are too much. Practice checking damage, wear, and cost to advise new jacket buy with confidence.
Measuring available seam allowances accuratelyIdentifying stressed or shiny wool seam areasRecognizing pattern distortion from over-lettingEvaluating structural damage in canvasesGuidelines for recommending replacementLesson 7Working with lined jackets: opening facing, sleeve heads, and reattaching liningsMaster safe ways to open lined wool jackets, reach seams, and keep structure. Learn to handle facings, sleeve heads, shoulder pads, and linings so putting back together is easy and jacket looks untouched.
Choosing entry points in lining seamsOpening and securing front facings neatlyRemoving and labeling sleeve heads and padsManaging shoulder seams without distortionReattaching linings with smooth hangLesson 8Understanding wool behaviour: drape, shrinkage, and nap orientationSee how wool's natural ways affect change plans. Learn about drape, bounce-back, shrinking, and nap way so you plan ironing, steaming, and seam changes without making fabric flat, stretched, or crooked.
Comparing worsted and woolen jacket fabricsPredicting shrinkage from steam and pressingManaging stretch and recovery at stress pointsMaintaining nap direction in all pattern piecesPreventing shine and press marks on woolLesson 9Quality checks specific to tailored jackets: balance, lapel roll, and seam integrityBuild a final check routine for wool jackets. Learn to test balance, lapel roll, vents, and seam strength after changes so garment hangs well, feels good, and meets tailor standards.
Verifying front and back balance on bodyInspecting lapel roll and break line behaviorChecking vent overlap and hem alignmentTesting seam strength at stress pointsFinal pressing and lint removal standardsLesson 10Diagnosing tightness across the back: causes and measurement techniquesLearn to find back tightness using sight drag lines, customer talk, and exact measures. Tell apart size problems, posture, and pattern issues to pick safest change method.
Reading horizontal and diagonal drag linesMeasuring cross-back and shoulder widthSeparating posture issues from size problemsChecking armhole depth and sleeve pitchChoosing seam adjustments to add back roomLesson 11Pinning and marking during a tailored fitting: posture, movement checks, and client guidanceBuild steady fitting steps for wool jackets with posture fixes, move tests, and good pinning. Learn to mark on dark wool, keep customer safe, and explain steps so they feel in the know and easy.
Preparing fitting tools and fitting room setupCorrecting stance, shoulder drop, and hip tiltPinning side seams, back, and vents on woolMarking balance, button stance, and lapel rollExplaining fitting steps to reassure clients
