Lesson 1pH adjustment and chelating agents: EDTA/GLDA roles and recommended levelsAnalyse pH adjustment and chelating agents in hair care. Learn how acids, bases, and buffers establish target pH, and how EDTA, GLDA, and alternatives sequester metals, enhance preservative efficacy, and safeguard hair colour and stability.
Target pH ranges for key hair product typesAcids, bases and buffer systems in formulaeChelation chemistry and metal ion controlEDTA, GLDA and emerging chelatorsRecommended use levels and compatibilityLesson 2Rheology modifiers, thickeners and texture agents: carbomers, xanthan gum, hydroxyethylcellulose, associative thickenersGrasp rheology modifiers and texture agents that regulate viscosity and texture. Contrast carbomers, xanthan gum, cellulose derivatives, and associative thickeners, and understand how salts, pH, and surfactants affect their performance.
Viscosity, yield stress and sensorial impactCarbomers and neutralisation requirementsXanthan and cellulose gums in surfactant systemsAssociative thickeners and micelle interactionTroubleshooting instability and phase separationLesson 3Proteins, peptides and keratin derivatives: roles, molecular weight effects and compatibilityExamine proteins, peptides, and keratin derivatives in hair care. Discover how molecular weight, charge, and modification influence penetration, film formation, feel, and compatibility with surfactants, conditioners, and styling polymers.
Protein sources and hydrolysis processesMolecular weight and hair penetrationCationic vs anionic protein derivativesKeratin analogues and bond-mimicking claimsCompatibility with surfactants and cationicsLesson 4Conditioning agents: cationic surfactants, silicones, quaternary ammoniums, polyquaterniums — mechanisms and INCI namesInvestigate conditioning agents that enhance slip, softness, and manageability. Compare cationic surfactants, silicones, quats, and polyquaterniums, their mechanisms on hair, INCI nomenclature, buildup potential, and approaches for lighter formulations.
Cationic surfactants and lamellar structuresSilicone types, volatility and depositionQuats, polyquats and charge density effectsINCI naming conventions for conditionersBalancing conditioning, buildup and rinseabilityLesson 5Surfactants: anionic, amphoteric, nonionic — selection, mildness, foaming and concentration rangesExamine surfactant classes employed in hair cleansing and conditioning. Contrast anionic, amphoteric, and nonionic systems, their mildness, foaming, and conditioning properties, and design blends and concentration ranges for each format.
Anionic surfactants and cleansing strengthAmphoteric surfactants and mildness boostingNonionic surfactants and solubilisation rolesDesigning surfactant blends for shampoosActive matter, dilution and usage rangesLesson 6Emollients and oils: esters, fatty alcohols, natural oils and butters — polarity, spreadability and compatibilityExplore emollient chemistry in hair care, comparing esters, fatty alcohols, natural oils, and butters. Understand how polarity, spreadability, and compatibility impact slip, build-up, stability, and efficacy in various product formats.
Ester structure, polarity and sensory profileFatty alcohols for structure, slip and stabilityNatural oils, butters and fatty acid profilesPolarity, solubility and phase compatibilityChoosing emollients for product type and hair needLesson 7Functional actives and botanicals: antioxidants, UV filters, anti-dandruff actives, anti-inflammatory extracts — efficacy and evidenceAssess functional actives and botanicals for scalp and fibre advantages. Address antioxidants, UV filters, anti-dandruff agents, and anti-inflammatory extracts, emphasising mechanisms, evidence quality, and realistic claim substantiation.
Antioxidants and protection from oxidative stressUV filters for hair colour and scalp defenceAnti-dandruff actives and regulatory statusBotanical extracts and anti-inflammatory claimsEvaluating evidence and building claim dossiersLesson 8Fragrance, colourants and sensitisers: common allergens, limits and safer alternativesReview fragrance, colourants, and sensitisers in hair products. Identify common allergens, labelling regulations, and usual limits, and investigate strategies for safer, low-sensitising scent and colour designs that satisfy consumer preferences.
Fragrance chemistry and allergen sourcesIFRA, labelling and allergen disclosureColourant types and regulatory categoriesSensitisation mechanisms and risk factorsDesigning lower-risk scent and colour systemsLesson 9Preservative systems: broad-spectrum options, typical concentrations, selection by pH and rinse-off vs leave-inUnderstand how preservative systems shield hair products from microbes. Compare broad-spectrum choices, effective concentrations, pH ranges, and regulatory limits, and tailor systems for rinse-off, leave-in, and sensitive-scalp formulations.
Microbial risks in hair formulationsCommon preservative chemistries and modespH-dependent efficacy and stabilityDesigning systems for rinse-off vs leave-inRegulatory, safety and consumer concernsLesson 10Humectants and film-formers: glycerin, propanediol, panthenol, polymers — what they do and recommended levelsComprehend humectants and film-formers that control moisture and texture. Compare glycerin, propanediol, panthenol, and principal polymers, their water-binding properties, recommended levels, and influence on frizz, curl retention, and buildup.
Water activity, humectancy and hair hydrationGlycerin, propanediol and other small humectantsPanthenol and multifunctional moisturisersFilm-forming polymers for hold and frizz controlUsage levels and climate-dependent strategies
