Lesson 1Common contaminants and their chemical impacts (metal ions, residual acid)Identify common contaminants such as metal ions, residual acids, and impurities in water or raw materials. Learn how they trigger rancidity, DOS, texture issues, and colour changes, and how to prevent or correct them.
Sources of metal ions in typical soap studiosChelators to bind metals and prevent DOSResidual acid or lye imbalance problemsEffects of impure water and storage conditionsTesting and documenting contamination issuesLesson 2How oil blends affect hardness, lather, conditioning, cleansing and longevityLearn how different oil blends control hardness, lather type, conditioning feel, cleansing strength, and bar longevity. You will connect fatty acid data to real bar behaviour and design balanced, purpose-driven recipes.
Balancing hard and soft oils in a base recipeDesigning for creamy vs bubbly lather profilesManaging cleansing vs mildness in daily soapsFormulating for longevity and low mushinessUsing calculators to predict bar propertiesLesson 3Principles of saponification: triglycerides, fatty acids, NaOH reaction, heat and timeUnderstand the saponification reaction from triglycerides to soap and glycerin. Study how NaOH concentration, temperature, mixing, and cure time influence trace, gel phase, conversion efficiency, and final bar quality.
From triglycerides to soap and glycerinEffect of lye concentration on trace speedTemperature control, gel phase, and insulationTime, cure, and completion of saponificationRecognizing and avoiding false trace issuesLesson 4Common oils and butters: detailed properties of olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, cocoa butterStudy the chemistry and behaviour of major soaping oils and butters, including olive, coconut, palm, shea, castor, sunflower, and cocoa butter, so you can substitute intelligently and tailor recipes to cost and performance.
Olive oil grades and their soaping behaviorCoconut oil levels and skin tolerance limitsPalm and alternatives for sustainable hardnessShea, cocoa, and luxury butters in formulasCastor and sunflower as supporting liquid oilsLesson 5pH testing, titration basics, and typical soap pH ranges during cure and at useExplore how soap pH changes from pour to full cure, how to test it correctly, and what ranges are considered safe for skin. Learn titration basics to verify neutralisation and troubleshoot harsh or unstable batches.
Using pH strips and meters correctly in soapInterpreting pH during gel and cure stagesSafe pH ranges for body, face, and household barsSimple titration to check excess lye or fatCorrecting batches with off‑spec pH readingsLesson 6Superfatting: purpose, free oils, choice of superfatting agents, effect on shelf life and rancidityLearn why soap makers superfat, how to choose suitable superfat oils, and how level and timing affect mildness, lather, oxidation, and DOS risk. Develop strategies that balance skin feel with shelf stability.
Reasons to superfat and typical usage rangesChoosing which oils to reserve as superfatsIn‑the‑pot vs lye discount superfat methodsSuperfat level, oxidation, and DOS formationDesigning stable superfatted commercial barsLesson 7Fatty acid profiles and functional contributions: lauric, myristic, palmitic, stearic, oleic, linoleic, ricinoleicExamine key fatty acids and how each shapes lather, hardness, solubility, and conditioning. Learn to read fatty acid profiles and translate them into predictable performance when building or adjusting cold process formulae.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansing latherPalmitic and stearic acids for hardness and longevityOleic and linoleic for conditioning and glideRicinoleic acid and its lather boosting roleReading and comparing fatty acid chartsLesson 8Role of water and liquid substitutes (milk, tea, hydrosols) in trace and reaction rateUnderstand the role of water and alternative liquids like milk, tea, and hydrosols in dissolving lye, controlling trace, gel, and heat. Learn how water discounts and substitutions affect safety, texture, and cure time.
Lye solution strength and safe mixing ratiosWater discount and its effect on trace speedUsing milks and teas as full or partial waterManaging heat, gel, and potential overheatingAdjusting cure time for different water levelsLesson 9Soap molecules: surfactant structure, micelles, pH and skin compatibilityDive into soap as a surfactant: molecular structure, micelle formation, and how pH, water hardness, and formulation influence mildness and skin compatibility while still providing effective cleansing action.
Hydrophilic heads and hydrophobic tailsHow micelles lift and suspend soilsImpact of pH on skin barrier and feelWater hardness, scum, and chelating agentsFormulating for sensitive or dry skin typesLesson 10Role of additives (clays, botanicals, milks, sugars) on chemistry and preservation concernsInvestigate how clays, botanicals, milks, sugars, and similar additives interact with lye and fats, influence trace, colour, and lather, and introduce preservation or spoilage risks that must be managed carefully.
Clays for slip, color, and oil absorptionBotanical powders and risk of discolorationUsing milks safely without scorching or spoilageSugars, honey, and heat management in moldsWhen and how to use preservatives or chelators
