Lesson 1Preparing collar and collar stand: interfacing choice, stay‑stitching, assembling collar and stand, understitching and trimming allowancesUnderstand how to select interfacing, stabilize curves, and assemble a crisp collar and stand. You will practice stay‑stitching, layering, trimming, and understitching to achieve sharp points and a smooth roll line.
Choosing weight and type of interfacingCutting and fusing collar piecesStay‑stitching collar and stand curvesSewing collar outer and inner layersTrimming, grading, and clipping cornersUnderstitching and shaping collar rollLesson 2Constructing front placket and button placket: construction order, interfacing, edge‑stitching for crispness, recommended seam allowancesLearn the correct order for building front and button plackets. This section covers interfacing placement, folding sequence, edge‑stitching for crisp lines, and maintaining even seam allowances along the entire placket length.
Marking placket fold and stitch linesApplying interfacing to placket areasFolding and pressing placket turnsStitching inner and outer placket seamsEdge‑stitching for sharp placket edgesChecking placket width and alignmentLesson 3Hemming narrow hems for bottom and sleeves: blind narrow hem vs double turned narrow hem, stitch types and seam allowancesExplore methods for narrow hems on garment bottoms and sleeves. Compare blind and double‑turned hems, choose suitable stitches and allowances, and learn pressing and measuring techniques for even, ripple‑free results.
Choosing hem depth and allowancePressing narrow double‑turned hemsBlind hem technique for shirt bottomsSelecting stitch type and lengthManaging curves and side seam joinsFinal pressing for flat, smooth hemsLesson 4Setting in set‑in sleeves: easing sleeve cap, stay‑stitching armhole, basting, pinning sequence, lockstitch settings and seam allowancesGain confidence in setting in sleeves with a smooth cap. You will learn easing ratios, stay‑stitching and basting order, pinning sequence, lockstitch settings, and seam allowances that avoid puckers and drag lines.
Stay‑stitching armhole and sleeve capDistributing sleeve cap ease evenlyBasting sleeve cap before final stitchPinning sequence: seams and notchesLockstitch settings and seam allowancePressing sleeve head for smooth capLesson 5Topstitching key areas: collar edge, placket edges, hem and sleeve hems; needle/thread/stitch length specifics and use of topstitch footRefine topstitching on collars, plackets, and hems. You will select needles, threads, and stitch lengths, use a topstitch or edge‑stitch foot, and control pivoting at corners for clean, parallel lines.
Choosing topstitch needle and threadSetting stitch length for topstitchingUsing edge‑stitch or topstitch feetTopstitching collar and stand edgesTopstitching plackets and front edgesGuiding hems and sleeve hems evenlyLesson 6Attaching collar to neckline: easing, clipping, pinning pattern, machine choices, seam finishing at collar seamLearn how to attach the prepared collar and stand to the neckline. This section covers easing, clipping, pinning strategy, machine setup, and seam finishing for a smooth, balanced collar seam.
Marking neckline and stand match pointsEasing neckline and stand without tucksPinning sequence from center outwardsSewing collar seam on lockstitchClipping and grading neckline seamFinishing and pressing collar junctionLesson 7Final assembly: attaching facings or lining if present, clipping curves, trimming allowances, final pressing and quality checksComplete the garment with facings or lining, refine curves, and perform final pressing and quality checks. You will learn clipping, trimming, and inspection steps that give a professional, production‑ready finish.
Attaching front and neckline facingsJoining and securing lining if usedClipping curves and trimming bulkFinal pressing order and toolsChecking symmetry and measurementsInspecting stitches, seams, and edgesLesson 8Cutting and marking: layout, seam allowances, notches, stay‑stitch lines and interfacing placementLearn how to plan cutting for a collared garment, including grain‑perfect layout, accurate seam allowances, and precise marking of notches, stay‑stitch lines, and interfacing areas to ensure smooth assembly and consistent sizing.
Fabric grain and layout planningAdding and checking seam allowancesTransferring notches and balance marksMarking stay‑stitch and fold linesPositioning and marking interfacingCutting pairs and mirrored piecesLesson 9Sewing and finishing side seams: overlock seam finish, flat‑seam alternatives, edge alignment, pressing techniquesDevelop reliable methods for sewing and finishing side seams. You will compare overlocked seams and flat alternatives, practice accurate edge alignment, and apply pressing techniques that prevent twisting and bulk.
Aligning side seams and matching notchesChoosing overlock or alternative finishSewing side seams with even allowanceOverlocking raw edges without stretchingPressing seams toward back or openChecking side seam hang and symmetryLesson 10Joining shoulder seams: machine (lockstitch), stitch type, recommended seam allowance, stay‑stitching the neckline before joiningMaster shoulder seam construction using a lockstitch machine. You will learn seam allowance choices, stabilizing methods, neckline stay‑stitching order, pressing steps, and how to keep shoulder lengths and angles perfectly matched.
Stay‑stitching neckline before joiningAligning shoulder notches and edgesChoosing seam allowance and stitch lengthSewing shoulders on lockstitch machinePressing seams open or toward backReinforcing sloped or bias shoulders
