Lesson 1Superfatting and preservatives: what superfat means, typical percent ranges, and handling free oils; rancidity risks and antioxidant use (vitamin E, rosemary extract)Understand what superfat is and how leftover oils make soap gentler, affect lather, and extend shelf life. Discover common superfat levels, which oils to hold back, and how antioxidants like vitamin E or rosemary extract prevent oils from going off or developing that dodgy orange spots in your bars.
Defining superfat and lye discountChoosing which oils to superfat withSuperfat levels for face, body, and shampooRecognizing and preventing DOS and rancidityUsing vitamin E and rosemary extract wiselyLesson 2Selecting oils for target skin types: formulations for sensitive, dry, normal, oily skin and trade-offsFind out how to pick oil mixes for sensitive, dry, normal, or oily skin. Weigh up cleansing power, conditioning, and bar firmness, and grasp the choices between gentleness, bubbly foam, durability, and keeping costs down when crafting recipes for specific needs.
Key fatty acids and their skin feelFormulating for sensitive or reactive skinDesigning bars for dry or mature skinBalancing recipes for normal or combo skinLow-residue bars for oily or acne-prone skinLesson 3Understanding trace and its impact on swirl techniques and batched consistencyGet to grips with trace—what it is, spotting its stages, and why it counts for texture and patterns. Master controlling how fast it happens to pull off swirls, layers, or embeds while your mix stays easy to work and holds its shape.
Visual and textural signs of light traceMedium and thick trace and when to use themFactors that speed or slow traceTiming colorants and fragrance at traceTrace management for swirl techniquesLesson 4Fragrance choices: essential oils vs. fragrance oils, heat and alkali stability, skin-safety considerations and IFRA basicsCompare natural essential oils and synthetic fragrance oils for cold process soap. Check their staying power against heat and lye, risks of changing colour, safe amounts, and IFRA rules to make scented bars that are safe on skin and hold their smell.
Essential oil pros, cons, and safety limitsWorking with synthetic fragrance oilsAcceleration, ricing, and discoloration risksReading IFRA documents and usage tablesBlending scents for better longevityLesson 5Basic saponification chemistry: triglycerides, fatty acids, glycerin, and how lye converts oils to soapGet a straightforward view of how soap forms: lye reacting with fats to make soap and glycerin. See why precise lye amounts, clean ingredients, and right mixing steps are key for bars that are safe and won't go wonky.
Structure of triglycerides and fatty acidsWhat sodium hydroxide does in solutionThe saponification reaction step by stepRole and benefits of natural glycerinWhy accurate lye calculation is criticalLesson 6Common soap-making oils and butters: properties, typical fatty acid profiles, and functional impacts (hardness, lather, conditioning)Look at everyday oils and butters for soapmaking and how their makeup affects firmness, bubbles, moisturising, and how they rinse. Learn mixing them for stable, balanced recipes that don't cost the earth.
Lauric and myristic acids for cleansingOleic-rich oils for conditioning and glidePalmitic and stearic acids for hardnessCastor oil and stable, creamy latherBuilding balanced base recipes from staplesLesson 7Role of liquid phase: water vs. distilled, herbal/tea infusions, milk, and impact on texture and traceSee how various liquids work in cold process soap, from clean distilled water to herb brews, teas, or milk. Understand how they change trace speed, feel, colour hold, scent, and drying time.
Why distilled water is the default solventWater discounts and their effect on traceWorking safely with milk and sugar-rich liquidsUsing herbal and tea infusions for color and scentManaging acceleration and overheating from liquidsLesson 8Additives and functional botanicals: clays, oats, activated charcoal, exfoliants, botanical powders and their skin effectsFind out how extras like clays, oats, charcoal, scrub bits, and plant powders alter soap's feel and job. Use them right for smoothness, calming, detox looks, and scrub that suits without being harsh.
Using clays for slip, color, and oil anchoringColloidal oats and soothing additivesActivated charcoal for color and marketingChoosing gentle versus strong exfoliantsDispersing botanical powders to avoid clumpsLesson 9Common allergens and nut oils: identification, labeling implications, and alternatives for nut-free barsSpot usual allergy triggers in soap, especially from nuts. Learn what to put on labels, cut cross-contamination risks, and swap in nut-free choices that keep your bars working well.
Common allergenic oils and buttersReading supplier documentation and COAsLabeling practices for potential allergensDesigning nut-free or low-risk formulasCommunicating risks to sensitive customersLesson 10Natural colorants and pigments: mica, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric—staining risk, heat sensitivity, and pH stabilityKnow how plant colours act in strong lye soap. Compare micas, clays, spirulina, annatto, turmeric on amounts, bleeding, marking risk, heat changes, and colour hold over time.
Differences between micas and mineral pigmentsUsing cosmetic clays for color and slipGreen botanicals like spirulina and chlorellaWarm tones with annatto, turmeric, and paprikaPreventing fading, morphing, and staining issuesLesson 11Simple formulation metrics: percentages, parts by weight, batch scaling, and converting to grams for calculator useBuild skill with easy recipe maths. Work with percentages, weight parts, sizing up or down, and ounces to grams so you use lye calculators spot-on and safe.
Using baker’s percentages for oilsConverting between weight unitsScaling a test batch to production sizeEntering data correctly in lye calculatorsChecking water and lye ratios for safety
